Type of engine bearings

[beerman]

 Have two engines that I am tearing down to inspect and hopefully rebuild the best one. One of the engine had bearings that looked to be in pretty good shape, and the were marked white, on them. The center main bearing had the thrust plates pined onto the block and bearing cap. The other engine did not have any markings on the bearings and the thrust plates on the center bearing were part of the bearing shell, like little flanges. Have any of you here ever checked and replaced bearings . I would like to know which one is correct.

Thanks, Jeff

[steve1973]

When I checked into new bearings I was asked what type I had so apparently there is one with a flange and one with out. You have both examples.

Steve A.

[beerman]

Thanks, that's good to now. I guess I will call one of the dealers and see whats available.

[Darth_Kitten]

I'm in a bit of a predicament.
When I took my engine to the machine shop, they discovered that the crankshaft was cracked.
I obtained a used crank locally and had it cleaned up.
I just received my motor parts back from the shop and started to reassemble.
The crank won't lay in the bearings properly as the middle bearing is the flange type.
I'm guessing the crank I picked up is the type that is flangeless as the center bearing is what is preventing the crank from seating correctly.
The difference between the bearing flange width, and internal distance between the center webs is right at .002". Does anyone know what the runout spec is? I can't find my manual CD, and just ordered another.
So, what do I do at this point? machine the crank so that the bearing fits and there is proper end play? Machine the bearing? (is that even possible?)
Scrap the crank and get he proper one?
Help!

[beerman]

If I were at home I would post some pictures of my crank so we could compare them, but I am out of town at work and will be gone another week or so. My crank looks like some one just drilled and added the dowel pins, and they seem to be soldered or brazed in place as the area around was the bronze gold color. I really think if I were to grind the pins off the stock bearings with the flanges would probably fit. I was told that maybe my crank was either modified or came from a civilian white motor. If I were you I would che k around and see what all good  machine shops would have to say about your crank, or like you said if you could find another crankshaft it might be the better way to go. I would not even attempt to machine the bearings. Please keep us updated.

[Darth_Kitten]

Thanks beerman.
Yeah, I was thinking that machining the bearing material might not be a good idea.
I guess if I remove material from the crank, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal since it's such a little amount.

[Outsider]

Don't mess with the thrust bearings! They keep the crank in the correct location in the block. Get the right parts now or you may be doing it all a second time.

Steve

[steve-0]

i have nos crank shafts  for $400
reconditioned heads for $150

[Darth_Kitten]

Would anyone have a photo of the flangeless type setup?
I'm still puzzled over this as the parts book only has one part number for the crankshaft and one part number for the bearings.

[Darth_Kitten]

How about run out spec? Would anyone have this handy? I lost my CD with all the manuals on it, and it will be a couple days until my replacement arrives.
I thought a saw .008" somewhere, but can't find it again.
Thanks!
Mark

[Darth_Kitten]

I forgot I had Steve's Shop Base Data book.
It calls out a runout of .008" and also mentions that if the flanged center bearing is oversized it will need to be cut down with a facing arbor.
It further states that .008"+.002" is the limit for end play.
Mark