halftrackinfo
pictures of your halftrack => post updates on the progress of your restoration => Topic started by: 8683jb on May 31, 2018, 10:16:51 PM
-
I wanted an Autocar horn button. There’s a couple of pictures showing half tracks with this style horn button logo in one of David Doyle’s books. I’ve never seen an original one, but I imagine the insert with the logo was embossed brass or aluminum. Until I can find a real one, I decided to make my own, so I had some stickers of the correct size made up to match the Autocar logo of the era.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/1799.jpg)
I didn’t want to waste the “Ross” horn button insert that came with the NOS horn kit, so I formed a new one out of .020” 2024 aluminum. To do that, I cut out a round plate, leaving four legs and using a socket and PVC coupler of the appropriate sizes, pressed the part in an arbor press. Although any vise that opens wide enough will do.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2268.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/3147.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/4154.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/5138.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/6105.jpg)
I scuffed it up with red scotchbrite for some enamel.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/10138.jpg)
After painting the insert and applying the sticker, which is about .010" thick, I used clear epoxy as a resin to encapsulate it. In order to have a bump-free surface, I re-inserted the part in the PVC coupler, leaving the edge about 1/16” below flush to contain the resin. This left it thick enough to accommodate the sticker without it leaving a bump in the finished surface.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20180601_085609.jpg)
The epoxy I used started to to firm up after about 15-20 minutes. At that point, I pushed the insert up just above the top of the sleeve to leave a radius on the edge and let it cure there.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20180601_091557.jpg)
I didn’t know whether to make it OD like the wheel or black like the horn button so I made one of each. I left an un-painted edge, similar to the Ross emblem.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/11143.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/12134.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/13126.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/14126.jpg)
These will do until the right one comes along.
I had to order a minimum amount of stickers and have several left if anyone else is interested in doing this. They wound up costing 1.59 ea.
-
Man those came out looking good. I would be interested in at least two.
-
Absolutely Jon...I'll take one...or two depending on the number left over in case I mess the first one up. Thanks!
-Tom
-
That looks great, I'll take two(same reason as above).
Thanks Gary
-
Very nice work
-
Thanks guys for the compliments. If you'll PM me your mailing address, I'll send these out to you.
Jon
-
Wow! I have to agree with the others; those look incredible!!!
-
Amazing job!
-
Awesome
Don G
-
My results are not as nice as Jon’s, but I’m satisfied. Thanks for the great idea.
I have a question. On the second photo there are two tabs on one of the slats that would prevent being able to insert and lock the horn button. I’m planning on grinding on of the slats away. Anyone else encounter a horn button like this?
Thanks,
Paul
-
Paul - those two ribs are to keep the button indexed once it’s in place. Use a thin film of petroleum jelly or silicone grease, like DC-4 compound on the rubber tabs and then set the button in place between the tabs and rotate it under the tabs until it locks between those ribs. Your insert looks great! I’m glad it worked for you.
Jon
-
Outstanding work, very creative!!
-
John, where did you get your Ross Horn Button from?
-
John, where did you get your Ross Horn Button from?
It came with the horn button kit I got from warbirdrestorer a couple of years ago.
-
Halftrack uses the same horn kit as a M35.
Steve A.