halftrackinfo
armor plate => straightening and repairing => Topic started by: col.halftrack on October 31, 2013, 12:50:48 PM
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I am fitting the rear armor on my M4A1 and would love to move the bed to the rear another 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I have (I think) all bolts loose but cannot seem to slide the bed front to back much at all. Drivers side fits good and door opens and shuts. The passenger seems tight and the RH door will not shut without the help of a crowbar.
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Should be elongate holes in the bed mounts and rear cab support. If all bolts are loose it should move, but remember if you are trying to move only one side all bolts in the bed need to be loose to skew the bed to fit.
Steve
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I ended up slotting my rear mounts for the bed I needed it to float. Also found some of the frame brackets were not square. I'll have to loosen one of those up too.
Don G.
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Also forgot to ask if the right door lines up correctly vertically. If not I would put some more shims in the front or rear cab supports to get it straight.
Steve
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I had the same problem with my halftrack. My driver's side door would not shut. To fix this I loosened the eight main floor bolts, attached a tow strap to the left rear corner of my rear armor. NOTE - set your e-brake and/or block the tires/tracks. I then pulled back a bit and kept tension on the tow line while checking the door fit. Once I had good fit I re tightened all floor bolts before releasing the tow line. Your M4 should be similar in mounting to my M2. Good luck.
Steve A.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/100_15161.jpg)
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Does anybody have pictures and or dimensions of the shim plates between the body and frame? Much appreciated, thanks.
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The ones that are used on mine are mounted, so I don't have any pics for you. They are the size of the mounting pads. They varied in thickness from an 1/8" and thinner.
Gary
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Does anybody have pictures and or dimensions of the shim plates between the body and frame? Much appreciated, thanks.
This one’s broken off on one side, should be 4" long. But you can see the dimensions and the hole size & shape. As Gary said, there are different thicknesses.
Jon
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20191123_123616.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20191123_123539.jpg)
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Kind of what I figured, thanks guys, I appreciate the info.
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Check out the shim stack on this Diamond T M3A1
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/1007/diamond-t-bulkhead-2-detail1.jpg)
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Wow!!!
Me thinks we have a kink in the works somewhere??
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I've noticed some other Diamond-T's with what looks like more shims than would be expected in this location compared to White and Autocar. I also checked this halftrack over very carefully over the last two years and can't find anything wrong with the frame. It was torn down like this when I got it and we've been putting the cab back on after getting it running and everything has fit perfectly so far. This was an Israeli return, M3A1 winch model, gonna put it up for sale soon.
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On Zelda we had to shim quite abit at this point also. Zelda is a Diamond T as well it was the only way get the doors to close.
Don G.
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My guess is that on Diamond-T's (or some of them) either the frame bracket was a little low or short or the bulkhead itself was so they just compensated with the extra shims.