"LUCKY 13" Restoration Process

[coreyelliott]

I haven't had time to update our progress recently, but things are still slowly moving forward.  We are down to the frame and have been trying to repair the front bumper area.  Unfortunately the roller brackets were cut off before we got our track, so we are still trying to come up with something that fits into our shrinking budget.  We really need those before we start to reassemble the front end and install the power train.

We have more pictures showing other progress, and I'll get those posted shortly.

Corey





In the picture above, you can see one of the right angle tabs that was welded on to keep the armored louver assembly from moving around.  Most of the ones I have seen are bolted on, but ours were welded.  Looks like it was done during the A1 conversion because the welding rod is very obvious in appearance (high nickel?) in all the areas the conversion needed welding.  The weld beads have an extremely shiny/stainless steel look, a very specific looking slag coating where it exists, and there is no corrosion/rust on the welds..






Poor roller frame extensions.   







Here I am wondering, again, just why in the hell we are doing this.






















In the above picture, you can see the strapping that is welded on our halftrack.  It's usually bolted on, but ours was welded.  Again, you can tell it is the same specific rod that was used welding other areas during the A1 conversion.  I read one half-track enthusiast that said these were never welded on, and if they were then it was because of an incorrect bracket or something like that.  I guess this is good evidence that he might not be right.  But who knows.  A lot can happen in 80 years.

[coreyelliott]

Here is one last pic for now.  I found one that somewhat shows a fairly successful result from our attempts at straightening the front center bumper section and repairing the 3 straps.





Corey

[spec4don]

Looking good Corey.

Don G.

[yd328]

It's amazing how these things got twisted up. Nice work

Gary

[8683jb]

Nice job Cory. Looks good!

Jon

[Cleprechaun]

I fixed those same straps on mine a couple months ago. They were bent up, scarred up, missing / sheered bolts. I suspect they got a lot of abuse from bottoming out and from some bozo wrapping a chain around them to pull on something. Mine had chain damage. I could see someone welding them.

[spec4don]

Cory, on your roller bracket, some vendors Make just the ends because they get cut off. You can weld them back on to the existing bracket pieces. That’s what I did with mine! Less expensive route.

Don G.

[coreyelliott]

Cory, on your roller bracket, some vendors Make just the ends because they get cut off. You can weld them back on to the existing bracket pieces. That’s what I did with mine! Less expensive route.

Don G.

Thanks, Don!  Got any leads on specific vendors that sell these?  You've piqued my interest.

Corey

[spec4don]

Check with Paul Jacobs, I got mine from the other supplier.

Don G

[coreyelliott]

While rebuilding the water pump, I apparently managed to press the impeller on a little bit further than I think it's supposed to go.  I believe it is supposed to be flush with the end of the shaft.  I don't have the tool to pull the impeller, so I will have to disassemble the water pump to get it back to where I think it is supposed to be.  Is it worth pulling the pump apart to set the impeller back 1/8th of an inch?

[beerman]

I took apart a water pump last week, and the impeller is not quite flush, the shaft is sticking out a small amount. I can get you a picture tomorrow. When you spin the pump by hand do you notice if it rubbing or anything. If you have access to a lathe the impeller removal tool is easy to make.

[coreyelliott]

I took apart a water pump last week, and the impeller is not quite flush, the shaft is sticking out a small amount. I can get you a picture tomorrow. When you spin the pump by hand do you notice if it rubbing or anything. If you have access to a lathe the impeller removal tool is easy to make.

Thanks Jeff, I would be interested in seeing the picture that you have.  I have included a picture of my water pump when I disassembled it.  It was flush.  When I spin the pump, I do not feel any odd or out of place rubbing or anything.  It actually feels really good.  My only real concern is that there is a small gap starting to be visible on one section of the impeller edge against the case.  Not sure how to explain it.  I've also posted a second picture below showing this gap.  I was worried it might not allow the impeller to "seal" correctly while it is spinning in the water pump body.

Sadly we don't have a lathe.  It is one of a few items we would like to add to our shop tools, but the expense of getting one is crazy.  Plus the space, and more importantly the ability to use it!   

Corey





Original impeller flush with the edge of the shaft.






Small gap starting to show up in one area around the perimeter of the impeller.

[8683jb]

Corey –

You can remove the bearing retainer, support the pump housing and press the shaft flush with the impeller. Flip the pump over and you’ll find the bearings will be further out now. Replacing the retainer will move the bearings back where they belong, and the impeller will be closer to the housing wall. It should spin without rubbing the housing.

Jon

[beerman]

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=262133&title=img-20181228-215402824&cat=4102
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=262130&title=img-20181228-215513266&cat=4102

Sorry for the delay in posting these, my internet sucks,  very slow, but anyway here is one of the pumps I took apart not long ago

[coreyelliott]

Thanks for the pictures.  That helps me out.

Corey