Author Topic: Replacing rear pinion cork seal  (Read 16429 times)

col.halftrack

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Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« on: May 19, 2012, 10:17:02 AM »
 I am getting ready to put a rear axle under the M4A1. The manual says you can pull the pinion assembly by removing the six bolts holding on the pinion seal flange. I removed the flange nut and noticed the keyway has been sheared allowing the flange to slip twenty degrees out of line. A standard two jaw puller with heat added has failed to pull the flange so I am wanting to pull the pinion assembly and try pressing the flange off. Pinion assembly pulled out about one half inch and seems to be held. Before I start prying and beating anyone done this before and have some ideas?
 Thanks
 Kevin
1941 White M2
1942 White M4A1 was M4
1942 Autocar M2A1
1942 Autocar M3-75
1943 White M13 rebuilt as M16
1943 Diamond T M3A1

yd328

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2012, 07:08:46 PM »
Kevin,
It sounds similar to the front axle, I just did mine and the same thing happened. The pinion did not come out, it was hanging up on the ring gear. I have my rear diff out but I will not be able to take a look at it until tuesday.

Gary

yd328

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2012, 03:30:40 PM »
Kevin,

the pilot bearing looks like it will hit the ring gear when you go to pull out the pinion, thats what happened on my front diff. I was splitting the axle in half so it didn't matter. It looks like you will have to pull the ring gear out first to get the pinion gear out. I can post some pictures if it helps.

Gary

Outsider

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2012, 06:45:18 PM »
Kevin, If I remember correctly there is room to do this. Take a 5 lb sledge and put it on one side of the collar where it slides over the pinion shaft and use a 3lb to hit on the other side working back and forth a little may be the trick you need to get that off. The shaft is tapered so a little work on the sides should get it to break loose.

Steve
Lots of green "junk" as my wife likes to call it.
Friends don't let friends buy Trailking Trailers!

steve-0

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2012, 07:29:18 PM »
i also had 2 of those that sheared the keyway.
one was loose but the other was just about welded in there. i used heat but nothing worked. i had the option of using a different one so its still stuck.
i think if i was going to try pull it again i would do as you mention. pull the whole 3rd member and put it in a press. pullers are to hard on the flange, you will end up bending it.

dwhite

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2015, 09:31:59 AM »
Does anyone have a source for the cork gasket (ORD A214939) and/or the differential carrier gasket (ORD B184319)?  Thanks, DW
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration

Outsider

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2015, 12:07:02 PM »
Do you have a picture of the cork gasket?

The carrier gasket should be available from a heavy truck parts shop. As it is the same carrier as used on some older model trucks.

Steve
Lots of green "junk" as my wife likes to call it.
Friends don't let friends buy Trailking Trailers!

dwhite

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2015, 04:26:01 PM »
The rear pinion cork gasket picture in the parts book doesn't have a lot of definition.  Unfortunately the old cork gasket I have ended up in pieces; however, the gasket is around 4.54" OD x 4.145" ID x .400 wide.  Does that ring a bell with anyone?
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration

steve-0

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2015, 05:05:04 PM »
here is some material.

1/2"
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9487k5/=101zbjw


3/8"
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9487k8/=101zbnc


i don't have the specs on this seal but going by what dwhite posted you may be able to use rubber o ring material.
to make an o ring out of ring material you cut it to length with a razor and super glue the ends together. this is done even in hi pressure systems.

not sure if this is the right size
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9407k17/=101zdg6

or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1034t5/=101zhjh
« Last Edit: December 01, 2015, 05:16:53 PM by steve-0 »

Darth_Kitten

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2015, 09:29:58 PM »
I'm pretty sure all the NOS gaskets are dried out just like the valve cover and oil pan gaskets. I received an NOS one a couple months ago, and it was fragile and broke in a couple places. I still ended up using it and just sealed the breaks with RTV.
Hopefully it holds up.
I'm guessing you're better off making a new one if you can...

steve-0

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2015, 09:36:25 PM »
i may have misread the measurements dwhite listed.  he listed .40 wide and i used that as the thickness.

anyways mcmaster has sheets cheap

here is some 1/8"   I'm not sure what is required.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9487k3/=1022rsp

steve1973

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2015, 10:41:07 PM »
I'm pretty sure all the NOS gaskets are dried out just like the valve cover and oil pan gaskets. I received an NOS one a couple months ago, and it was fragile and broke in a couple places. I still ended up using it and just sealed the breaks with RTV.
Hopefully it holds up.
I'm guessing you're better off making a new one if you can...

I have new made valve cover and oil pan gaskets. These are fresh made and ar not NOS if interested. I also have complete engine and transmission gasket sets that are made fresh, not NOS.

I think I had the same problem with my NOS oil pinion seal. It feel apart when installed. I believe the repair shop used some silicone or something instead.

Steve A.

dwhite

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Re: Replacing rear pinion cork seal
« Reply #12 on: December 21, 2015, 04:35:23 PM »
I appreciate the input that y'all have provided.  I ended up going with 3/16 square o-ring stock (McMaster #9700K13) and superglue.  It took me a couple of tries, but if you cut the circumference about 1/2" small, glue, and then stretch the o-ring in place you'll end up with a good seal.  Total investment: $4.  DW
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration