halftrackinfo
pictures of your halftrack => post updates on the progress of your restoration => Topic started by: big44maghunter on October 05, 2016, 06:30:05 PM
-
Well, thought I would start a thread on my restoration. It'll take a long time but might as well start one now. I chose the name Rough Night, just liked it. No special hidden meaning.
I got this track this time last year and have been out of town for work most of the time since then. I'm still learning about what all I'll be doing by reviewing the many great builds on here and through many books that I have purchased. I believe it started life as an M3 and was converted to M16 in the early 50's. It then was at a base in Michigan where it was surpluses out. A junk yard had it and eventually it made its way to the person I procured it from last year.
Yes, it's had a few " Rough Nights"!
-
I've been removing parts as I get time. I plan on building a pole barn soon so that should help speed up progress! Here are some pics of the progress.
Well one to start, I forgot I removed some pic from my phone! I'll post more from my computer later.
-
I like it, that is one cool exhaust manifold!
-
Wow, great project. I have a complete hood assembly, intake/exhaust manifold assembly and some other stuff you might want. I sent you a PM.
Steve A.
-
Thanks Steve! I have a lot of parts, just not on the track! I have all of the front although I think my cowel (?) Bottom below windshield in not correct. It may be for a scout car. Also have this, but it needs some work also.
-
Awesome! Looking forward to following your progress!
-
Some additional parts I have, including a bed. I believe this is one of Outsider's beds.
I'm hoping to get some more parts local soon. After that I'll start picking things up from places further away or that need to be shipped.
-
Yes, That looks like one of mine. To confirm it look at the front trays at the outer edge right where they lay on the big cross member on both sides there should be a number stamped.
To do an A1 model restoration the front floor plate will need to be switched out.
Steve
PS. You need to save that header for posterity! ;D
-
That looks like a nice project. It's interesting to see the front tire TP stenciled inside the fender.
Gary
-
yd328, I found my HT stenciled there as well, except in an earlier style lettering.
Steve
-
That looks like a nice project. It's interesting to see the front tire TP stenciled inside the fender.
Gary
Yes, had that on both sides.
Brad
-
Made some good progress on the tear down today! Could've used a larger tractor!
-
Looks like good progress. Now you have lots of little pieces to work on inside when the snow starts flying.
Steve
-
Got the brake booster off and some other small parts today including that awesome exhaust manifold. If any one is running their track in a smash up derby this would work well!
[attachment deleted by admin. sorry all images over 3000 kb where deleted automatically
-
Got a load of parts the other day, some original some reproduction. All four side wall pieces are original. The rear door is supposed to be original, but the rear side pieces are repro. All the track pieces are reproduction and still need the holes chamfered. The doors are a mix, both uppers and one lower are original, one lower is repro. Pistol ports and other parts are a mix.
Other items include two original left side tank covers and one repro right. One new vintage Maine wiring harness, repro lube chart, some original sheet metal parts, 1000 bolts, 3 canvas window covers, two track rollers.
Couple of the parts have markings on them. The original lower door has a name on it! "ANACONDA", isn't that cool!
Couple of the rear side armor piece have cracks, some pretty bad. Any one weld up cracks on original armor? If so, what did you do? Heat then weld?
Brad
-
That is way cool!! Almost like an early Christmas. ;D
Steve A.
-
That's a nice pile of parts, they should keep you busy for a while ;D
Gary
-
Did those all come from the guy you bought the HT from? He had quite a stash of parts at one time.
Steve
-
Did those all come from the guy you bought the HT from? He had quite a stash of parts at one time.
Steve
Yes, they did. I've been picking up as much as I can from him because he's so close. Paying pretty much what it's worth but don't have to deal with shipping on a lot of heavy stuff. He's getting pretty tapped out now, but has a few mor things. I've been lucky to have a one stop shop so close!
Brad
-
What does everyone do for break pads? I could buy some NOS break pads, but wondering if that's a good idea. Is there a modern replacement or material that would be better?
Thanks
Brad
-
Does he have any passenger upper doors laying around? You can check with White Post restorations to reline your shoes. I had them do my wheel cylinders, but I had a local guy reline the shoes.
Gary
-
There is a shop over here that will reline your old shoes. I have done it on a couple of projects and it has worked out quite well. I would call around over there on the east side as you should be able to find someone over there to do it as well.
Steve
-
Thanks guys, I'll check local first.
I think he my have an upper door but it's a reproduction.
Brad
-
Didn't plan on doing much this winter as my track is outside. Sure didn't think we would be having 60deg days mid February in Michigan! Pulled the cover off and was able to remove the rest of the battery box, steering column/gearbox and radiator. That radiator was difficult, had to take the fan and water pump off. Started working on the driver side track removal but no luck yet. I removed the top roller, pulled up the boggies with chain binder and removed all the nuts on the rear idler. Have not been able to get the track spring nut loosened yet, so outer half of the idler won't come off. Any tricks for the spring nut? I still need to use heat and got some new wrenches for it.
Brad
-
There are two ways to compress the track tension spring if you are unable to loosen the nut. One is to use a cum along attached to inner rear idler and the bogie support casting or (if your idler stop is free) use your idler stop and use a large deep impact socket between the end of the stop and the bottom of the idler and slowly compress the spring. This is how I removed mine. See this post http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=217204. You can also see all the tools I used to remove the tracks. Hope this helps. Good luck! :D
Steve A.
-
There are two ways to compress the track tension spring if you are unable to loosen the nut. One is to use a cum along attached to inner rear idler and the bogie support casting or (if your idler stop is free) use your idler stop and use a large deep impact socket between the end of the stop and the bottom of the idler and slowly compress the spring. This is how I removed mine. See this post http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=217204. You can also see all the tools I used to remove the tracks. Hope this helps. Good luck! :D
Steve A.
Thanks for the ideas Steve. Couldn't get the link to work though!
Brad
-
Worked great, got them both off in about an hour.
-
There are two ways to compress the track tension spring if you are unable to loosen the nut. One is to use a cum along attached to inner rear idler and the bogie support casting or (if your idler stop is free) use your idler stop and use a large deep impact socket between the end of the stop and the bottom of the idler and slowly compress the spring. This is how I removed mine. See this post http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=217204. You can also see all the tools I used to remove the tracks. Hope this helps. Good luck! :D
Steve A.
Thanks for the ideas Steve. Couldn't get the link to work though!
Brad
I fixed the link on the original post. it should work now.
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=217204
Steve A.
-
Picked up this canvas top for it. Haven't seen many of these for sale. Also got a nice storage bag. Bag was made for camouflage netting but works great for the top.
-
Excellent find!
Don G
-
The Canvas is very nice !
-
hello
great project with good parts
olivier
-
Well, it's been almost a year since my last project post. Life got in the way again! Had to travel several months for work and haven't done much with the Michigan cold. I did have one huge step on my project, a new pole barn! Should make the rest of the project a little easier than working in my gravel drive. Finally got back on it yesterday and ended up removing the powertrain. One step closer, I have a plan to get it all torn down by June 1st and start the other direction this summer.
Brad
-
Looks great Brad. Looks like a nice pole barn - and a purty dang nice power train remover too! Good luck with it all and post lots of pictures.
Jon
-
Looks great Brad. Looks like a nice pole barn - and a purty dang nice power train remover too!
Thanks! I bought a 1 ton gantry then was offered the forklift for scrap value. About $700 and some spray paint and it works great. Twice the capacity also.
Brad
-
Tear down continues! Making good progress. Removed the rear drive axel and a pallet of other items.
-
Gettin’ there Brad...then the real fun begins! I see the torp heater is going full blast...cold??
-Tom
-
It was a little chilly last night, got down to 24deg.
-
Keep up the good work
-
Bravo! It will be fun when you start back up hill!
Don G.
-
Nice work, it only gets better from here ;D.
Gary
-
Very nice start on the restoration
-
Felt like a few rounds with Tyson working on the track tonight! Only got a few things off but progress is progress!
Can't post pictures right now for some reason.
-
Been trying to figure out how to post pictures again with not a lot of success. I can no longer post them directly to the site like I used to be able to, so this will be my test on 3rd party hosting.
Pretty much have everything off at this point except for the bogie assemblies. I did have a couple questions for the group about the rear cast frame section, should I remove this? looking for any reason why or why not to separate this from the frame. Also the rear idle shaft, should I remove these or just cover and blast around them? Just want to make sure there are no reasons why I should or should not take these items off. I'm good either way but don't want to create more work if not needed.
Thanks,
Big44maghunter - Brad
"Img"https://imgur.com/DDSHB8H"/img"
"img"https://imgur.com/EHIhFx7"/img"
"img"https://imgur.com/UnAnOS4"/img"
-
Okay, well some success. Now I need someone to tell me how to get the picture to show and not the link! What did I do wrong?
Thanks,
Brad
-
Hey Brad,
Try replacing your quotation marks with open and closed brackets like these [ ]. place img or /img between the brackets. img for the first one on each line and /img for the last one on each line. In other words, exactly like you have it now, but with brackets instead of quotes.
-
Hey Brad,
Try replacing your quotation marks with open and closed brackets like these [ ]. place img or /img between the brackets. img for the first one on each line and /img for the last one on each line. In other words, exactly like you have it now, but with brackets instead of quotes.
Thanks for the help but it still didn't work. I replaced the quote marks with brackets and saved. When I post it nothing showes up, not even the link! It's still there when I go back to edit but does not show up when posted!
Brad
-
Test
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=252828&title=20180406-220256&cat=500 (http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=252828&title=20180406-220256&cat=500)
-
Hi Brad,
once you have your photos up loaded to the G503 albums site here is what you do to put photos in your posts.
Open photo of choice then go to the medium image link and copy link.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/POSTING_PHOTOS.png)
Once link is copied then you can past in in your post.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/POSTING_PHOTOS_2.png)
To check to see if it works all you have to do is Preview your post. If you see the photo instead on the link then it worked. ;D
Hope this helps.
Steve A.
-
Need some input on best way to remove these bogie arms. I used the heat and beat method on the one on the right and it took and hour, but it's off! Thanks for any pointers you may have!
Big44maghunter - Brad
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20180525_092202.jpg)
-
Mine all seemed to come apart fairly easy. One or two needed some heat. I also used some small chisels or wedges to spread them apart, I inserted the chisels where the axles are for the bogie clusters. Put two on each a a side and slowly spread them apart. Where the arms fit into the main casting, used some smaller ones and slowly worked them apart as well. Iead somewhere where, someone, jacked up the rear , and rotated the bogie wheel out of the way and used a small bottle Jack and or a porta power and pushed the arms apart, while using some heat and a hammer.
-
It's a tapered fit. I used chisels as well. There was some beating and cursing...
-
I tried the chisels, but I wasn’t getting anywhere so I machined a steel cap to slide over threads to protect the end of the shaft and used a large two-jaw gear puller. A couple of them just popped off with the puller but on the others, after I tightened the wazoo out of the puller, a few smacks with a large hammer did the trick without having to use any heat. Or as mfrance suggested, a porta-power would be a handy tool for this. Once the tapered shafts are free, the rest is pretty easy.
-
Well in the end the chisel and heat method worked pretty good. had 2 or 3 that took a lot of work but the rest came out without too much trouble. Got all the rest of the bogie parts off the frame, including the cast housing. couple small things to take off tonight then it should be off to the sandblaster.
Brad
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20180528_165007.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20180528_165016.jpg)
-
LOOKS GREAT!! Before you go any further I recommend you take lots of photos of the frame for fuel, brake line and wiring routing and mounting locations.
Steve A.
-
I've not posted in a while, but I have continued to make progress a little at a time! I have the frame sandblasted and primed, sent 20 bogies out to be redone and have started to collect some bolts and bearings to put the crab and bogie clusters back together.
Speaking of bearings I started with new replacements at Motion (SKF 6405), they were around $90ea on their website! sure didn't plan on that much in my budget so I have been working back from that. I have a friend that manages a Motion industries store that can get me the SKF for about $45 which is pretty damn good considering where they started, but I wanted cheaper than that. So far I have picked up 6 NOS New Departure 3405's for about 22ea and continue to look for reasonably priced replacements. Anyone know of a source in that price range or have most been paying up for them?
Thanks,
Brad
-
Run as far as you can from Motion. They are one of the most expensive places to get bearings. Do a goggle search for the part number and go from there. Should end up with much better results.
Steve
-
Brad - colhalftrack/Kevin Lockwood has the bearings and seals. Your frame looks great!
Jon
-
Wouah
great job
-
I picked up my bearings from http://www.locateballbearings.com. they give you a list of bearings from different manufacturers. I picked up American made SKF for less then Chinese made bearings.
-
Coming along nicely.
-
Kevin Lockwood has the best prices on bearings and seals anywhere.
Steve A.
-
Trying to get a little done here and there. Got the cast bogie member back on. A lot of progress on blasting and painting. Hopefully I'll start assembling more in the near future. Working on getting the front leaf spring components done so I can move onto the front and rear axles.
-
The fun, reassembly part's coming right up Brad. It looks great. Nice shop too! The forklift must be nice - all I have to help lift my stuff is a horse...and all he wants to do is argue.
Jon
-
I like your job
Super restoration
-
Bravo!
Don G.
-
Brad,
What paint did you end up going with? 34087?
-
No, I went round and round on the paint color. Even painted the entire frame twice to have a larger sample to look at. I ended up going with 33070. I liked the darker green and started with the late ww2 semi gloss on smaller items but once I sprayed the frame it was too glossy for me.
-
I've been making slow but steady progress on my rebuild. Got all the bogies back, they turned out great. Hubs all have new bearings and seals. Idlers also got all new bearings and seals. Got all of the rear suspension back together now. Still working on one of my idler repair rings, then I'm moving onto the front springs and axle next. Already have Kevin's rebuild kits for the front and rear axles.
-
Looking great!!
-
It looks nice Brad. Good job!
-
Very nice job!
-
Awesome looking work!
Corey