halftrackinfo
pictures of your halftrack => post updates on the progress of your restoration => Topic started by: Selliott on April 07, 2018, 10:35:44 PM
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OK Gang, This will be the official thread for "Lucky 13" (M2-13) the 13th M2 delivered by Autocar in July 1941 and as far as we know, it is the oldest known surviving Autocar halftrack. It was found in the upper Texas Panhandle near Canadian, Texas and with the help of a good friend with a dually pickup and another good friend who let us borrow his Gooseneck trailer, we hauled it back to Lubbock, Texas. And So…….. after several months of sitting beside my shop, we have moved “Lucky 13” inside and officially begun the restoration process, and we learn something every day! So far we are really enjoying "the Hunt" if you know what I mean. We have lots of feelers out and we even found some parts this last weekend from a guy who had a halftrack years ago. So we are off and running and I am sure we will have lots of questions.......
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Good luck with it all Shon. There are tons of good info and advice on this site. Post lots of pictures as you go along!
Jon
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Will do Jon! Here are the links to a few pics to bring everybody up to speed....
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4354.jpeg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4353.jpeg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4359.jpeg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/10137.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/933.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/1a2.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5895_edited_smaller.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5896_edited.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5897_edited.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5898_edited.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5900_edited.jpg" />
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Bravo! Keep the pictures coming!
Don G.
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Really glad you came along and saved it. :)
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Awesome. Looking forward to the restoration photos. Good luck.
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Hey bro, let me fix those images for you! :o
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4354.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4353.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/image4359.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/10137.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/933.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/1a2.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5895_edited_smaller.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5896_edited.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5897_edited.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5898_edited.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/IMG_5900_edited.jpg)
Corey
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The actual vehicle is over at my brother's house, since he has the shop. We do all of the major work there (I'll let him post updates on that progress), but I bring back smaller projects to my house and work on them in the garage. I finished rebuilding the fuel pump and thought I'd post some pictures. I bought the rebuild kit from Then & Now Automotive, as suggested by people here and elsewhere. The kit number is FPA70 and the quality is great. They also sent me a fuel casting since mine was corroded beyond repair. I know that the color isn't right, but it'll be covered in dirt and grime before too long anyway.
Obligatory before shot.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8774.JPG)
This is the kit.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_86901.JPG)
The fuel casting they sent me. This was in much better condition than I expected. It might even be NOS.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8688.JPG)
The major components laid out after painting and waiting for reassembly.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8733.JPG)
Final product.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8775.JPG)
Corey
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That looks fantastic!! Keep up the great work. ;D
Steve A.
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That looks great Corey. Nice job!
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Very very nice looking forward to this thread.
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Thanks everyone. These parts tend to be very photogenic. They don't look quite as good in real person. ;D
Corey
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Nice start
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While my Brother has been busy with the smaller stuff I am working on Lucky 13 itself. We have removed all the front armor and part of the cab armor. Built a tool similar to the ones I have seen on here for holding the screw heads and boy did it make a difference. Ready to start cab removal. Pics to follow.....
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Great job on the fuel pump, I will be looking forward to the updates 8)
Gary
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So here are the pics I promised in my last update. We are working toward getting the cab off so we can get to the motor and tranny / transfer easier. We are making pretty good progress working a few hours in the evenings. Getting a lot of the nuts off, but still having to cut a few. More pics in a few days.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/3DC9EEFD-C71B-4A21-AC02-8DCEF6706E17.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/4394BFFB-C64B-45A9-B6E6-4CC55134149C.jpeg)
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Looks great Shon! You guys are making a lot of progress.
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You guys are making great progress. Keep up the good work.
Steve A.
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Thanks for all the encouragement guys, it's one thing I love about this site and this brotherhood! We have had some very productive weekends and a evenings over last couple of weeks. Made the kind of progress this last weekend that makes you feel like your actually getting somewhere. Although one of the photos shows me with a look I get quite often where you can tell I'm thinking "what the hell are we doing?" We have Kevin rounding up motor parts for us and as you can see in one photo we are definitely gonna need some tranny parts at some point. But we are making headway.....
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/15492EAE-3A00-454B-B0D0-7C0A6ED6DAC6.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/11A32CE2-4DFA-4BE2-89A0-5483D82339F6.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/FA29E262-B700-4A77-85D7-2483786E8700.jpeg)
img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/AC6B3DD2-D2A6-4BFC-B58B-19744568C3E7.jpeg[/img]
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/71CD46D1-14EF-4455-BF98-40FD72EDBDF3.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/53F99642-0137-4444-A6A5-B281C92B03C1.jpeg)
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I know that look very well. You guys are kickin’ butt though!
I love your shop!
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Thanks for the shop comment, but it's really stuffed and really dirty. Might have to stop one weekend and do a major straighten up and clean up! Found several stamps finally and tags. Pics below, unsure about all the stamping on the rear diff????
Block number:
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/F037A765-03F5-4670-9CDD-00A82241F53B.jpeg)
Rear diff stamps:
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/8AD0CD2A-4FFE-4BA4-8BF0-41AFBB8EFF71.jpeg)
Plate on Transmission:
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4410/medium/BDC58C30-5E4B-4B82-9B41-63E26F3B6CF4.jpeg)
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These sideways pictures are killing me!!! We'll try to get them rotated to the correct orientation soon.
Corey
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Most pictures should be fixed. I think there is still one in there that makes it look like a right hand drive vehicle. Rest assured, it is not. ;D
Corey
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That is probably the original motor it left the Autocar factory with. It's a low serial number.
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We've been making slow but steady process getting the halftrack down to the frame. In the meantime, I've continued doing some of the smaller stuff in my garage. I finished up the regulator and thought I'd share some of the pictures. Anyone know where to get a new data plate that is riveted onto the cover?
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8447.JPG)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8726.JPG)
Corey
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Very nice, you guys are doing a great job so far!
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Nice job Corey!
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Nice work, the vr looks great.
Gary
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Yep, the big chunks feel good getting them done! But the small parts are good fill in’s! Looking good!
Don G.
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Nice progress keep at it
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Thanks for all of the support, it really helps us keep moving forward! ;D
Corey
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We continue to make slow progress. Transmission has been gone through and is about 80% done being reassembled, using new parts where needed (I'm still having trouble disassembling the top plate/shifter plate). The transfer case has been completely disassembled and cleaned and we are hunting down new parts for that. We are trying to cross reference new bearing rather than replace with NOS, and there seems to be one final bearing we are having troubles finding. We continue to collect parts we will need for the engine. Kevin has been very helpful with some of these parts.
The costs continue to climb.
As we were looking over our engine parts that are haphazardly scattered all over the shop, Shon noticed something on the crankshaft that neither of us had seen before. It looks to be a sacrificial wear ring on the end of the crankshaft, next to the crankshaft timing gear. It is the area where a seal rides, so it is obviously a replaceable part for when the seal begins to wear a groove. I noticed Gary has them for sale on ebay and he calls them "HALF TRACK CRANKSHAFT SEAL WEAR RING". However, our problem is that this "wear ring" spins on the crankshaft. It's not a tight enough fit. If we were to install it like this, the crank would spin inside of the ring. It's not a loose fit, there just isn't enough of an interference fit to prevent them from spinning.
I've looked through TM 9-1711 (the engine TM) several times and haven't seen this piece mentioned anywhere at all.
Any ideas on how to repair this? A new crank is really not an option.
I'll get new photos of our latest progress posted sometime soon.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_90962.JPG)
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Replacement sleeves for the wear area for seals is a common practice. Any good seal retailer or engine machine shop should be able to measure your crank and get you the correct speedy sleeve.
Steve
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However, our problem is that this "wear ring" spins on the crankshaft. It's not a tight enough fit. If we were to install it like this, the crank would spin inside of the ring. It's not a loose fit, there just isn't enough of an interference fit to prevent them from spinning.
I had my engine done at a shop but that part probably tightens down when the balancer is tightened. Maybe someone that has first hand knowledge on that can chime in. Also, you can try installing your balancer on the crank to see if it will tighten up.
Gary
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Go to your local bearing distributor and pick one up. It’s called a speedy sleeve . All you need is the O.D. Of the shaft and they can hook you up.
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Sorry my post didn’t go out and I noticed that I just repeated what Steve said.
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Thanks for the replies, guys. I have dealt with speedi sleeves before, most recently on the pinion shaft of a differential on a Chevy Blazer. I don't think my brain made the connection because the sleeves I am used to dealing with are very thin, where this thing is a real thick collar.
Also, based on what yd328 said, I'm now curious about whether or not the harmonic balancer pinches this collar and locks it in place. When we got this motor, the balancer was missing the center bolt holding it on. As I think about it , if the balancer does in fact pinch the collar, then it may have backed off a little since the bolt was missing and allowed the collar to become loose on the crank. Interesting. I'll have to investigate some more.
Corey
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Any chance anyone out there would want to trade a generator for a starter? It might be a long shot, but we have 2 generators and no starters!
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I have two crank shafts and that sleeve spins freely on both of them till the balancer is installed. if you cant find a speedy sleeve or it then im sure it could be welded up then re ground to spec.
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I have an old starter that is sitting here...want to swap for the generator?
On a high tide, all ships rise!
kk
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Great start and the fuel pump rebuild looks top notch. Did you get both halftracks?
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We did get both, but there wasn't much left of the one on the right. It was stripped and we saved all the parts. The frame was toast so we trashed it, but saved all the brackets and most of the back end.
Shon
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I haven't had time to post any pictures lately, but we have been working! ;D
Guess I'll go ahead and post some more over the next several days. I don't want to post a whole bunch all at once. Here's the oil filter I cleaned up recently. I used a lye solution that I believe I read about on here at some point. It has worked incredibly well on some of these parts.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_84941.JPG)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_84951.JPG)
This next image shows it right after removing from the lye solution (sodium hydroxide). After removing this piece, I mostly just had to wipe it down to get it to look like this.
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Very nice Corey! Well done...
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Looks good, I like finding the stamping under all of the crud and bringing them back.
Gary
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I haven't had time to update our progress recently, but things are still slowly moving forward. We are down to the frame and have been trying to repair the front bumper area. Unfortunately the roller brackets were cut off before we got our track, so we are still trying to come up with something that fits into our shrinking budget. We really need those before we start to reassemble the front end and install the power train.
We have more pictures showing other progress, and I'll get those posted shortly.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_99592.JPG)
In the picture above, you can see one of the right angle tabs that was welded on to keep the armored louver assembly from moving around. Most of the ones I have seen are bolted on, but ours were welded. Looks like it was done during the A1 conversion because the welding rod is very obvious in appearance (high nickel?) in all the areas the conversion needed welding. The weld beads have an extremely shiny/stainless steel look, a very specific looking slag coating where it exists, and there is no corrosion/rust on the welds..
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_99601.JPG)
Poor roller frame extensions. :(
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_99491.JPG)
Here I am wondering, again, just why in the hell we are doing this.
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In the above picture, you can see the strapping that is welded on our halftrack. It's usually bolted on, but ours was welded. Again, you can tell it is the same specific rod that was used welding other areas during the A1 conversion. I read one half-track enthusiast that said these were never welded on, and if they were then it was because of an incorrect bracket or something like that. I guess this is good evidence that he might not be right. But who knows. A lot can happen in 80 years.
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Here is one last pic for now. I found one that somewhat shows a fairly successful result from our attempts at straightening the front center bumper section and repairing the 3 straps.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_00869.JPG)
Corey
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Looking good Corey.
Don G.
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It's amazing how these things got twisted up. Nice work
Gary
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Nice job Cory. Looks good!
Jon
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I fixed those same straps on mine a couple months ago. They were bent up, scarred up, missing / sheered bolts. I suspect they got a lot of abuse from bottoming out and from some bozo wrapping a chain around them to pull on something. Mine had chain damage. I could see someone welding them.
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Cory, on your roller bracket, some vendors Make just the ends because they get cut off. You can weld them back on to the existing bracket pieces. That’s what I did with mine! Less expensive route.
Don G.
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Cory, on your roller bracket, some vendors Make just the ends because they get cut off. You can weld them back on to the existing bracket pieces. That’s what I did with mine! Less expensive route.
Don G.
Thanks, Don! Got any leads on specific vendors that sell these? You've piqued my interest.
Corey
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Check with Paul Jacobs, I got mine from the other supplier.
Don G
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While rebuilding the water pump, I apparently managed to press the impeller on a little bit further than I think it's supposed to go. I believe it is supposed to be flush with the end of the shaft. I don't have the tool to pull the impeller, so I will have to disassemble the water pump to get it back to where I think it is supposed to be. Is it worth pulling the pump apart to set the impeller back 1/8th of an inch?
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I took apart a water pump last week, and the impeller is not quite flush, the shaft is sticking out a small amount. I can get you a picture tomorrow. When you spin the pump by hand do you notice if it rubbing or anything. If you have access to a lathe the impeller removal tool is easy to make.
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I took apart a water pump last week, and the impeller is not quite flush, the shaft is sticking out a small amount. I can get you a picture tomorrow. When you spin the pump by hand do you notice if it rubbing or anything. If you have access to a lathe the impeller removal tool is easy to make.
Thanks Jeff, I would be interested in seeing the picture that you have. I have included a picture of my water pump when I disassembled it. It was flush. When I spin the pump, I do not feel any odd or out of place rubbing or anything. It actually feels really good. My only real concern is that there is a small gap starting to be visible on one section of the impeller edge against the case. Not sure how to explain it. I've also posted a second picture below showing this gap. I was worried it might not allow the impeller to "seal" correctly while it is spinning in the water pump body.
Sadly we don't have a lathe. It is one of a few items we would like to add to our shop tools, but the expense of getting one is crazy. Plus the space, and more importantly the ability to use it! ;D
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_9743.jpg)
Original impeller flush with the edge of the shaft.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_02876.JPG)
Small gap starting to show up in one area around the perimeter of the impeller.
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Corey –
You can remove the bearing retainer, support the pump housing and press the shaft flush with the impeller. Flip the pump over and you’ll find the bearings will be further out now. Replacing the retainer will move the bearings back where they belong, and the impeller will be closer to the housing wall. It should spin without rubbing the housing.
Jon
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http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=262133&title=img-20181228-215402824&cat=4102
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=262130&title=img-20181228-215513266&cat=4102
Sorry for the delay in posting these, my internet sucks, very slow, but anyway here is one of the pumps I took apart not long ago
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Thanks for the pictures. That helps me out.
Corey
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Thanks to a friend, Shon and I were able to borrow a tool that was made for removing the impeller. It's amazing how easy things can be when you have the correct tool. It honestly took me less than five minutes to get the impeller where I was comfortable with it's placement. It would have probably been fine where it was, but that question/worry would have always been in the back of my mind!
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_03505.jpg)
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Looking good, ahhhh peace of mind!
Don G.
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Good job on the waterpump. I had to take mine apart twice before i got it right!
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May we ask who did you borrow the tool from, for the water pump.
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Corey and Beerman,
I only used an hydraulic press to do mine. I know someone had a tool made for the job, but the whole thing just presses out no problem.
Paul
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Ok, it's been a long time since I've updated our progress. I will post an update very soon; however, there are so many pictures that need to be uploaded and organized, etc., that it takes a long time, and I'm lazy when it comes to these updates. As I said, I'll post a lengthy update soon.
Until then, I know everyone loves seeing the first time the motor is fired up. And we accomplished that this weekend! So, I have two videos for you. The first one is short, only about 10 seconds, and it is the first time we fired up the engine. The fuel lines were not yet plumbed, so we just poured some fuel down the carb throat. But, it is the first fire.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKMNTHtI1Ac
This second video is a combination of two videos after we plumbed our fuel lines and figured out our fuel pressure problems. (mud daubers had somehow decided to build a cozy home inside the fuel pump). This is not exactly the first startup since lines were plumbed and pump repaired, but maybe the second or third.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ka6UtmNa6M
Progress!!!!
Corey
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Good deal Corey!! Very productive weekend for both of us!
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Sounds Good.
Gary
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The following few post contain about 150 pictures, reader be warned.
As promised, I am updating our project. It took me for ever to upload these and then get them into post format, so unfortunately I ran out of desire before I organized them or put them in order. So, all of the following are just randomly put together and are not organized at all! SORRY!
Also, some are not oriented correctly (ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE ON MOBILE/TABLET). Again, sorry.
And lastly, I now need to update with some more recent pictures.
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Wow...pretty impressive Corey. You guys have been busy! It looks great.
Jon
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Awesome job!!
Great photos.
Keith
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Great Job,
It looks like you have been very busy. Keep the pictures coming too.
Gary
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Looking good. How did you weld up the cracks in the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Jeff
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Man I wish those pics were in order, that’s really annoying! ;D
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Shon/Corey,
What did you soak the coolant overflow tank in to remove the rust? Also, did you coat the inside of the tank when you were done? I'm about to do mine so any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
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Looking good. How did you weld up the cracks in the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Jeff
Jeff, I did that VERY slowly! ;D
It took me several evenings worth of work and several conversations with Shon as I cursed the manifold and threatened to just break out some jb weld. He said he didn't think that was such a good idea. ::)
Anyway, I grooved out the entire crack (it extended around 3 sides) and drilled a hole at either end of the crack to help prevent it from spreading. I then used stainless steel rod and welded it up (SMAW) using preheat and plenty of post heat. I did have to re-groove a couple of areas as some minor stress cracks formed parallel with the weld in the HAZ. I've only really welded on cast one other time and found out the stainless rod was best, I think I used 308. I'm sure there is something better and more appropriate, but this is what I could get easily. I got the rod and Tractor Suppoly.
It wasn't fun and was labor intensive but the welded repair seems to have worked. We were also extremely careful when bolting the manifold on. My biggest concern is that when this manifold eventually burns off the ceramic paint and starts to oxidize, the stainless steel weld will stay clean. Will just see how that works out.
Corey
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Shon/Corey,
What did you soak the coolant overflow tank in to remove the rust? Also, did you coat the inside of the tank when you were done? I'm about to do mine so any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul,
We used a lye bath. It's what Shon and I have affectionately called the "shit bucket". We've thrown everything in this solution to help clean them. Transmission gears, transmission shifter cover, cables, air cleaner, etc. This lye bath is incredibly caustic and basic, opposite of acidic, and is pretty dangerous stuff. It's essentially what dip tanks have (or used to anyway) that a machine shop would drop a block in. Except their's is usually heated to near boiling. As long as you wear gloves and eye protection you're fine. It also can produce hydrogen gass during the reaction.
You do have to be careful though. This thing LOVES to eat up some metals. Such as pot metal, it will eat out the aluminum. Don't ask how I figured that one out.
You just need to get some sodium hydroxide and dump it in water. Luckily, sodium hydroxide also commonly used in drain cleaners. It's also known as caustic soda. Lye is used in the soap making industry and there seems to be a lot of DIY soap making going on, so a lot of people buy lye online for this reason. Sodium hydroxide is also commonly used in the production of meth, so that has thrown a kink in the sales to the general public.
Below I posted a pic of the drain cleaner I get from True Value. It's important that the drain cleaner be 100% lye (sodium hyrdroxide). Many cleaners are gels, or have other things in them. The pic of the one I posted is the good stuff. There is also a picture of our air cleaner soaking in the shit bucket. I learned this trick from someone on this forum I think. It cleaned up the air cleaner like new inside. Since you can't open up the air cleaners, I was looking for an option to clean them out. This worked perfectly.
I mix one pound of lye in 5 gallons of water. And throw in more as I clean more things. I'm not really scientific about it. I've never pulled out any litmus paper and tested the pH levels or anything like that.
After putting the surge tank in this solution, it revealed some small rusted holes we didn't know were there. I was able to brazed those and they are holding. The inside was clean and we did not line it with anything. Probably should have thrown some POR-15 in there or something. Might have to revisit that in the future.
Corey
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Thanks for the information on the exhaust and I may have to try the lye bucket cleaner
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Thanks for the information on the exhaust and I may have to try the lye bucket cleaner
Let me know if you have any questions. I'm more than happy to help. I've made many mistakes that I can maybe help others avoid!
Corey
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Thanks for the information on the exhaust and I may have to try the lye bucket cleaner
Let me know if you have any questions. I'm more than happy to help. I've made many mistakes that I can maybe help others avoid!
Corey
Man....haven't we all!!!!!!! ;)
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Thanks for the info.
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Just a few updates. We started working a little bit on the doors. We went ahead and disassembled all of the door parts, latches, locks, hinges, etc. I was able to free up all of the rods that hold the upppers up or down, but the locking mechanisms were both not wanting to move. As others here have done, I took them apart and rebuilt them. I used a spring from ACE hardware, but I did have to shorten it by about 1/4". Next, we went ahead a did a dry fit of the door on the truck (I just couldn't resist). Also, we happily put on some brackets ordered from Paul.
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We also got our louvers installed and working! What a great feeling that was. We don't have them hooked up to the handle in the cab yet as we are waiting on the clevis. A friend took it an repaired it and we don't have it back yet, but the louvers are connected to the rod. That was an interesting assembly. Next was the middle hood piece. Ours is very slightly bent or sagging down. Is that typical? I almost remember the horizontal hood pieces straightening out the middle piece when it's all reassembled. Not sure. I was also able to rebuild the ignition switch and paint it.
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Lastly, we are finishing up the body work on the dash and started to fit the floor together. I got the last vertical panel for the passenger floorboard welded up and new hinges installed. Shon already had the others done so we fit them together. Another eye opening thing that made things really start to feel real.
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Oh, I almost forgot!!!! We got some tracks! We were able to somehow find a guy in our area that had a set of Isreal tracks made in 1987. Still strapped to the pallet!
That's all for now!
Corey
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Wow - outstanding job!!! It looks great. It sure boosts things along when you can start putting painted parts back on!
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Lastly, we are finishing up the body work on the dash and started to fit the floor together. I got the last vertical panel for the passenger floorboard welded up and new hinges installed. Shon already had the others done so we fit them together. Another eye opening thing that made things really start to feel real.
Hello Corey,
Great job!!!
Just wondering if you're going to pull the dash back out to do the wiring?
It'll be a lot easier than standing on your head!!! ;)
Keith
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Thanks for all of the support! It's coming along slowly!
Corey
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Hello Corey,
Great job!!!
Just wondering if you're going to pull the dash back out to do the wiring?
It'll be a lot easier than standing on your head!!! ;)
Keith
Thanks for watching out for us Keith. We have the wiring harness built and installed, just need to hook up the gauges as I rebuild them. We discussed leaving the dash out, or partially disassembled, but decided we could stand on our head for a least a little bit. ;D
Corey
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A couple of more updates!
Previously, I disassembled the hood latches and replaced the springs. After cleaning them and reassembling they work like new, but they still didn't have any pads on them. So, I went to Hobby Lobby and bought some cheap leather pieces and cut out some circles with my gasket cutter. While at Hobby Lobby I also bought some leatherworking rivets and used those to attach the leather pads onto the latches. Of course, the first one I put on backwards.
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I finished up rebuilding the tachometer. I think it came out pretty good. Thanks to our friend overseas for making the decals. They are a bit tricky to get installed to make sure it's clean.
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The trailer brake control actually still works. I measured the resistance and it rises and falls to what I think are the correct specs. I stripped off all the paint from the plate, painted several coats of black and after drying thoroughly I wet sanded it to get what I wanted. After a bunch more coats of sating clear, it turned out alright. I don't have a close picture of the finished product. The pictures I have here are actually my first try and I had to re-strip the whole thing and do it again. You can see it in some later pics of the dash.
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Lots of parts hanging to dry.
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We got the passenger side aluminum floor panels painted and installed.
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More progress on the dash.
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And lastly, we started fitting up the driver's side. Progress is good!
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Corey
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Great progress Corey...looking good. Sometimes there is trial and error and it sucks, but when you’re doing all this work it’s worth doing right, right?
-Tom
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Outstanding job!!
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Nice work, Its looking great.
Gary
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Looking great!!!!
Keith
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Shon has been busting his ass working on the bogie assemblies. This is crappy work. Luckily we did make the tool that someone here recommended to help split the wheels from the hubs. That has been a God send!
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/60144133127_7D3DB61D-EB8D-4527-93BA-E8CD56892BDC.jpeg)
I've been messing around with the speedometer rebuild. I'm still too nervous to commit to actually applying the decal!
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Corey
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Finally did it. It's got a lot of bubbles, but I'm happy with it! A lesson I've learned, that I wish I would have known before I did our ammeter, is after I spray the plate with the aluminum color it is necessary to spray it with matte clear. If you try to put the decals over the aluminum paint and then try to pull the decal off even just a smidge to adjust it, it will pull the aluminum metallic out of the paint. Clear coat top stops this.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28417.jpg)
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Lots of good work tonight. Got the rest of the bogie wheels pulled off and chose the hubs and wheels that we will be using. We WILL be giving these the urethane treatment in the future, but it's just out of our budget at the moment. We know we'll be losing some of this rubber. It's an expected loss.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28445.jpg)
I can't remember who posted about this tool, but my brother is so happy you shared this that he could kiss you on the mouth. It worked wonders!
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28437.jpg)
Lastly, we picked all of our bogie assembly parts and laid them out. Just need to sand blast and paint.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28475.jpg)
Corey
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Finally did it. It's got a lot of bubbles, but I'm happy with it! A lesson I've learned, that I wish I would have known before I did our ammeter, is after I spray the plate with the aluminum color it is necessary to spray it with matte clear. If you try to put the decals over the aluminum paint and then try to pull the decal off even just a smidge to adjust it, it will pull the aluminum metallic out of the paint. Clear coat top stops this.
Corey,
Mine had lots of bubbles too. Tried really hard to work them out, even with heat, but they wouldn’t budge. Had to take a needle and pop them all. And yes, you have top coat in matte before applying the decal.
Great progress!
-Tom
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Great progress.
The bogie's had to be the most hard ass work of my project.
How were your crabs?
Any adventures getting the shafts out? ;)
Keith
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Nice job! What a workout!
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I can't remember who posted about this tool, but my brother is so happy you shared this that he could kiss you on the mouth. It worked wonders!
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28437.jpg)
You're welcome for the tool design & posting. No thanks on the kiss though!
I'm glad it worked for you.
Jon
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You're welcome for the tool design & posting. No thanks on the kiss though!
I'm glad it worked for you.
Jon
;D
Corey
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Major setback today. I finished up rebuilding the speedometer and began assembly only to find out I put the decal on upside down. I can't believe one of you eagle eyed people didn't notice. The trip odometer is on the top and the main odometer is on the bottom, that ain't right!
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28417.jpg)
Corey
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Major setback today. I finished up rebuilding the speedometer and began assembly only to find out I put the decal on upside down. I can't believe one of you eagle eyed people didn't notice. The trip odometer is on the top and the main odometer is on the bottom, that ain't right!
Corey
Whoops....didn’t notice but then again I’m checking the forum from on the road so npmy attention to detail isn’t what it normally is. Bummer....
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Dang! Well - just think how much faster & easier the next one will be, now that you have all that experience. Sorry that happened.
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He’s a trooper, he will get it fixed! He has been been doing some excellent detail work while I manhandle the bogies and cutting extra stuff off the back frame. He has the patience for that work, I don’t! Thanks for all the great work Corey.....
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Shon's going under the knife in a couple of days and will be out of service for awhile, so we've been busting ass trying to take care of a few heavy items before that happens. We've made a ton of process. Only you guys will understand how much work we did to get this done as quick as we did.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29182.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29173.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29203.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29263.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29252.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29281.jpg)
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Good luck on your surgery, Shon. Going by your recent posts, I'm guessing hernia operation?
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That would have been a really good guess, but it was to repair a torn ACL. Maybe 51 year olds should t ski??? Anyway I got it done yesterday and I am on my way to recovery already. Thanks for thinking of me.
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Looking GREAT!!
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It may be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your bogie frames might be installed upside down. ??
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That would have been a really good guess, but it was to repair a torn ACL. Maybe 51 year olds should t ski??? Anyway I got it done yesterday and I am on my way to recovery already. Thanks for thinking of me.
You're welcome. Good luck with your recovery!
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It may be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your bogie frames might be installed upside down. ??
I thought that too Jon but looking at ref photos I think they're correct. It probably just needs more weight on the back end to counter the track tension and level them out.
-Tom
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Halftracks are good mental and physical therapy I'm still recovering from having brain surgery last year and doing what I can on my projects. It has been a big help keeping me focused on the positive and working with armor screws and nuts has helped me to regain strength in my left arm and hand. AND NO MORE HEADACHES. ;D
Lucky 13 is a lucky track for sure and I know luck when I see it. Love seeing the pictures of your progress.
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It may be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your bogie frames might be installed upside down. ??
Well son of a bitch. I put the speedometer decal on upside down, I'm sure I put those on upside down also. I don't guess I notice there was a difference... ::)
Great. Aren't you guys just great big old bearers of good news!
Corey
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Sorry Corey. Not too bad to fix though. Should come apart a lot easier than the first time!
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Sorry Corey. Not to bad to fix though. Should come apart a lot easier than the first time!
No apologies needed! I was joking. ;D I'm really, really glad somebody noticed it now, rather than later.
We'll get her fixed up soon! (The real reason I was frustrated is that I'm going to be doing all the work by myself now! lol)
Corey
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Looking good!
Don G.
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Confirmation. All four of the frames were on upside down. You'd think that statistics would say all four shouldn't be wrong, but I guess that's just our luck. I talked with Jon and he mentioned that I probably did it like this on purpose just to make sure they would fit correctly. I think I'm going to go with him on this one. ;D
Already got the track off and the back two disassembled, rotated, and put back together. Now I need to do the front two. I could've just flipped them around, but I didn't think this was too much more work. Also, note to self, don't forget the never seize next time. On one of the chamfered joints I used never seize and it came apart easily, the other I didn't and paid the price.
Corey
Upside down bogie frame
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_29812.jpg)
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Thats some heavy work there. I've done a few things two or three times myself. :-\
Gary
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Halftracks are good mental and physical therapy I'm still recovering from having brain surgery last year and doing what I can on my projects. It has been a big help keeping me focused on the positive and working with armor screws and nuts has helped me to regain strength in my left arm and hand. AND NO MORE HEADACHES. ;D
Lucky 13 is a lucky track for sure and I know luck when I see it. Love seeing the pictures of your progress.
That sounds like a tough time. I hope you continue doing well and also continue with no more headaches! My wife struggles with migraines, so I understand what you are saying to a point. Brain surgery can't be a minor thing I imagine.
Corey
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All four bogie frames are now in the correct orientation and the track has been reinstalled! What a pain in the ass that was. Glad it's over. And, as I've said several times already, I'm also glad we learned this now rather than later.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30274.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30286.jpg)
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We got some more work done on the doors. Got some upper door armor installed as well as some of the parts that go on the doors. Also got more of the floor bolted/screwed in. Shon is supposed to be sitting down to rest his knee, but you can see how well I'm able to enforce that.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30203.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30264.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30234.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30252.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30243.jpg)
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Your half-track looks phenomenal! In case you ever have to remove your bogie clusters again, you don’t have to remove the tracks. I understand your thinking though – it’s important to stay proficient in those track-removing and -installing skills!
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Looking really great!!!
Keith
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Thanks for all the support! We really appreciate it coming from all of you all.
Corey
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Looking good!!
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Amazing work! What a great looking Halftrack.
Love the nickname too. : )
Tim
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We have this front portion of perimeter rail on our halftrack. It looks original since it has green paint and looks to have the correct holes drilled for the pulpit armor; however, I've never seen any railing like this? All the ones I've seen are not just angle iron like this one, but have a small lip like a J shape. Also, they are usually bolted as well as welded and have gusset plates in the corners. Anyone seen anything like this before? If this is original the only thing I can think is that maybe this was one of the field mods when converting to the A1. Still, I thought those used the J shaped iron.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30305.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30313.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30323.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30337.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30343.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30353.jpg)
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M15's had angle iron for perimeter rail in the back when they were converted to M3's, but I don't think they used it in the front if I recall correctly.
Steve
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I don't know if that is original but I have come across a couple of pieces on my M2a1 that are Youngstown marked. It was rebuilt by B&M. One of them being the roller. Looks like you are moving right along, it looks great.
Gary
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Here's a shot of my cab a few "skint knuckles" ago.
I have 3" angle on the sides and the "J" shaped iron at the front.
Mine is a M2 converted to an M2A1 by Willie.
Appears a FEW different ways of conversion?
Keith
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Interesting. Thanks for the comments and the picture. I really think it might simply be further proof that, as others have said plenty before, there wasn't just one single "package" sent out for field mods and conversions.
Corey
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We had two pieces of door hardware that just wouldn't free up. No matter how long I soaked them in the shit bucket or applied various penetrating oils, these two just wouldn't let go. So, I had to break off the handle knob things and then light up the fire hammer. After thorough reddening, I was able to knock both of the rods out. I then made some knew handle knob things and drilled out the old broken pieces. It was then I learned that they were actually threaded. Whoops. Oh well, the new ones are installed with a bit of epoxy and will work just fine.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30375.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30425.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30465.jpg)
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Did you replace the spring in the piece that goes on the upper door? Yes the short rod is supposed to be spring loaded.
Steve
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Did you replace the spring in the piece that goes on the upper door? Yes the short rod is supposed to be spring loaded.
Steve
We didn't. The landing inside the tube that the spring is supposed to push against got "accidentally" removed while I was removing the rod. I couldn't figure out a quick way to re-set the landing so I reassembled it as is. That will be another project for another day, once I figure out how to re-secure the little circular piece of metal inside.
Corey
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I finally got the gauge cluster and the speedometer done. Such a good feeling to have that behind us. I didn't use any NOS gauges and just rebuilt all of the ones I used. The temp gauge does not currently work as the capillary tube was cut. They seem to be selling NOS gauges for about $300. We have other things more important to spend that money on at the moment. I may try to repair it, as I've seen plenty of explanations to repair with another capillary tube and it seems pretty easy. Just another project for later down the road. We will stick a generic temp gauge in the glove box to watch our temps.
Below you can see some before and then after pics.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_8673.JPG)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24246.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30875.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31062.jpg)
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WOW!! Great job on the restoration!!
Steve A.
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Could you go into some detail on how you did the speedometer, I have a couple in that condition and would like to make one work.
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Wow! Fantastic job on the instruments!!
My Cessna 180 had an oil temp gauge with a broken capillary, and I sent it to some tractor service in the mid-west to get it repaired. I can’t remember the name of the outfit - this was in 1995. They repaired it and it was still working fine when I sold the airplane 20 years later. Maybe there’s some similar service near you who could repair yours for less than the cost of a replacement gauge.
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Wow!!!
Great job!!
Keith
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Could you go into some detail on how you did the speedometer, I have a couple in that condition and would like to make one work.
Sure, I'll find some pics and throw something together when I get a chance.
Corey
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Great work on the speedometer.
Gary
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Could you go into some detail on how you did the speedometer, I have a couple in that condition and would like to make one work.
I'll point you to a thread Jon posted a while back - http://halftrackinfo.com/index.php?topic=1902.msg11286#msg11286
I used his experience to guide me through my rebuild. More I thought about it, the more I convinced myself that there was no reason tor retype out what he said in his great post. I'll post some pictures below of various steps in my process. And a few points I can remember off the top of my head.
If you want your odometers to work correctly, be sure and mark them where the zeroes are before cleaning them if you can. Initially, I just used a Sharpie to put a mark on one side. That wasn't good enough. On the second go, I used a razor blade and cut a light line across the odometers when I had them zeroed out. This helps tremendously when putting your new numbers on. Also, triple or quadruple check that you have the zeroes marked correctly before you apply your new numbers. I didn't. I thought I had it marked correctly but ended up be wrong. Had to order a whole new set of decals to redo it. Also, I held the odometers in the drill chuck just ease the application of the numbers.
I sand blasted my parts to help get them super clean. Also, after painting them I applied some satin clear coat. This really helps prevent the silver paint from getting messed up. I used a manila envelope for the gaskets and used a file folder for the green plastic.
Be sure to post if you have any questions. I'll be more than happy to give you any advice that I can!
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24246.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24395.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24402.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24456.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24495.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24503.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_2480.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_24813.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28367.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28378.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_2838_1_.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28506.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28515.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28624.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_28753.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_2931edited.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30842.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_30854.jpg)
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Shon has done absolutely ZERO work on Lucky 13 since his knee surgery. He's making me, his little brother, do all of this while he sits around and supervises. Well, I finally got him to do something. He wired up the dash and he looks SUPER excited to be doing it. Everything appears to be working as intended. Thank the Lord for all of the manuals we've purchased. We're glad to have this milestone behind us! Also, we got one of our NOS windshields fit up just for the heck of it. It looks like the plastic layer inside the glass may have gone bad and we will probably have to get new glass cut.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31272.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31291.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31283.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31424.jpg)
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Shon has done absolutely ZERO work on Lucky 13 since his knee surgery. He's making me, his little brother, do all of this while he sits around and supervises.
Ha...too funny! It's pretty awesome that you guys have each other to work on your track with...great bonding experience I'm sure. I bought my halftrack with the intentions of restoring it with my dad...but ALS had other ideas and we never got the opportunity.
Love reading your posts and seeing your progress. Keep posting...and don't lose your sense of humor!
-Tom
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I’m tickled to death that you guys were able to use my post to help with your restoration! Thanks to steve-O, that’s what this site is all about – posting our experiences for other folks who are doing the same thing to help each other out with our tips as well as our mistakes. Like your tip on marking the odometer - that’ll help the next guy. All credit to you guys, your instruments came out beautiful!! Keep the pictures coming!
Jon
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Looking good, I’m so glad I had my dash out when I wired my halftrack. Good times!c
Don G.
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Looking good, I’m so glad I had my dash out when I wired my halftrack. Good times!c
Don G.
Agree!!!
I would have needed my gantry crane attached to my belt to hoist me back out!!!
Keith
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Oh No You Didn’t..... just say I hadn’t done anything till now!!!!! Let me set the record straight.......I was out there less than a week after surgery on my crutches trying to help you! By two weeks I was hobbling around working, and now A little under a month and I’m doing ALL the work again!!! Don’t lie to all these good people.
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IT MOVES UNDER IT'S OWN POWER! LUCKY 13 MOVES! So after a ton of work, and sore days after that work, Shon and I finally got the passenger side assembled and the track installed. I've got pictures to post, but I'm too tired to do that now. I do have a video though!
After we got the work completed last night, Shon jumped in to move it. It was cold and we didn't warm it up, so it was running a little rough, but it moved on it's own. Also, we didn't know it, but there was a block of wood laying on the shop floor behind the passenger side tire. It caused Shon an unexpected bump and lurch when driving over it. If you read Shon's lips, he looks at me and says "it's the tires". We assumed there was a flat spot on the tires, but we were wrong! The next day, I moved Lucky 13 out of the shop on it's maiden voyage outside. We are so happy and relieved that we have reached this point. It's literally like a weight has been lifted from our shoulders.
In the near future, we plan on verifying all fluid/oil levels and hit all the grease zerks. Then we'll take it on a little bit longer trip. Of course, we'll try to provide video for that, too.
Here's the video: https://youtu.be/6nLdP3Mkh-k
Corey
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Nice video. How exciting for you guys! It looks great!
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Fantastic!!
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That is great guys! Good job.
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Milestone!! Congrats!!
Btw, what kind of paint do you guys use? I like the flatness of it!
Rob
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Congrats! Moving along!
Jon
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Btw, what kind of paint do you guys use? I like the flatness of it!
Rob
We use Rapco 34087. Paint discussion can lead to all kinds of conclusions, but we like this one. Here is a link: http://www.rapcoparts.com/34lukoldrmoc.html (http://www.rapcoparts.com/34lukoldrmoc.html)
Thanks to all for the compliments!
Corey
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Thanks for sharing this information Corey!
Rob
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There hasn't been much traffic on this site lately, so I thought I'd post a couple of updates. Shon and I have worked on several different projects on the halftrack and I've taken some pictures of some of them. Plus, Santa sent us a HUGE late (or early) Christmas present that I'll show you last. Anyway, hope all of you are safe and loving this quarantine! ::)
Corey
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Been working on headlights. We have about 6 different lights in varying condition that we could use. We luckily ended up with just enough parts.
Here is the condition of probably our best light. We also had two glass lenses, one in great condition and one with a small hole in it.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21536.jpg)
Our reflectors were in pretty bad shape, the few that we had.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31681.jpg)
Luckily, we had two reflectors in good'ish condition. Here is one after being blasted.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_32493.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31641.jpg)
Epoxy primer
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31792.jpg)
And here is a reflector after paint. I used a rustoleum aluminum that I found to be the shiniest. Still not chrome, but I hope it works.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31886.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_27817.jpg)
I had to put the paint on really thick to get the finish I wanted; however, even after several days it was still really soft. So, I threw it in the oven and about 200 degrees. Not a good idea.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_32301.jpg)
I refinished this one and now they both came out well.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31895.jpg)
Now paint.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31783.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_31834.jpg)
I bought bulbs online. The whole box for $15!
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_32063.jpg)
Had to try and do the wiring ourselves. Used a cut down screw head with a blob of solder to act as the contact points.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35252.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35201.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35962.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35971.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35222.jpg)
And then there was light! Hooked it up to the battery on my Tahoe just for a test.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36142.jpg)
Corey
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Outstanding job Corey! What a score on the bulbs!
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Nice job!!!!
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Thanks for the kind words! ;D
We made the decision to restore the BO drive light resistor and mount it like normal. It even has the correct resistance to work with a 6v bulb; however, we decided we didn't want to throw another variable in the electrical system if we didn't have to. So, we decided to just run a wire through the resistor but not actually use it and instead, replace the bulb with a 12v bulb as many others have done.
This is the only before photo I can really find, even though I've already uncrimped the housings.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_20989.jpg)
Unsoldered the 6v bulb.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21019.jpg)
Resoldered a new one. 1156 seemed to be similar wattage and size. I used some liquid electrical tape to help protect the solder connection as it was pretty exposed and could be susceptible to vibration. Then blasted the parts.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21294.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21419.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21278.jpg)
Used the original connectors but replaced the wire. Recrimped the cases together and added the ring. After cleaning up the glass lens, it was really clear. Don't have a picture of it turned on, but it puts out a nice amount of light.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21406.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21376.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21456.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_21436.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_33361.jpg)
More to come soon.
Corey
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Took a pic of the BO Drive light on. Polishing the glass made a big difference.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36938.jpg)
Corey
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Shon has been working on the fenders. I hate doing body work and he's good at it, so he got to do these. Both were blasted, primed, and only skim coats of putty were used. He was able to work out most of the large dents and dings.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_34142.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_34131.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_34123.jpg)
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We only had one complete windshield armor support rod. The other two were damaged, so we had to fix them. Again, I know you can buy these, but we enjoy doing these types of things.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2289.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_34761.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/3IMG_2229.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35063.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35173.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/4IMG_2898.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35192.jpg)
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We were also short one of the prop rod locking pieces. So, we decided to make one of those too. We don't have a lot of fancy equipment so we have to try and do stuff like this as basic as possible.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35412.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35454.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35493.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35733.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35763.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_3607.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_3610.jpg)
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We found a modern axe that we decided was close enough. We had to really take quite a bit of wood off the handle to get it thin enough to clear the door. Our original water temperature gauge does not work. The line was cut and I haven't tried to repair it yet. NOS gauges are just not in our budget at the moment. So, we hid a modern temp gauge in the glove box. Also, the master switch is located in there.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_34162.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36925.jpg)
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I can't remember if we showed our roller yet. We have an original roller as you can see in the first picture. Unfortunately, someone cut off about 6 inches. A friend of ours found some 12" OD pipe and we should have it in a couple of weeks.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_11417.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_11428.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_37052.JPG)
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We blasted and painted both seat frames and then Shon took care of the seats. He cut cushions out of some old boat seats and then used some post war shelter halves for fabric. Don't think we are quite the same size as the young men of that era. If we try to slide the driver seat forward, the bottom of the steering wheel interferes with our gut. Not sure what the problem is there ;D
Also notice the steering wheel is black. We are still thinking of repainting it green.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36917.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36907.jpg)
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Shon finished the fenders and we got them installed. He also made some brackets to hold our front blackout lights and got those wired and installed. Lastly, we got the headlights wired and installed. Considering I spray painted the reflectors, the put out a pretty good amount of light. Shon has done every bit of the wiring and everything has worked perfectly so far.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35122.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35134.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36876.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_37065.jpg)
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Santa Clause Paul Jacobs made a delivery! So, of course, we just HAD to fit up some pieces temporarily! Now we just need a bed.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36385.JPG)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_35683.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_36051.jpg)
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Lastly, because of Memorial Day, we busted our butts to get stuff done so we could take Lucky 13 out for it's first drive. This was me and my nephew, Shon's son. The drive went well, had some minor issues we will have to address, but it honestly went better than I expected. I'll post a link to a video once it's edited and processed.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41893.jpg)
Corey
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Here is the link to the video of our first drive!
https://youtu.be/VHO4s0JdiLM
Corey
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You guys have done an incredible job on that! Congratulations on the first drive. It looks great.
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Nice job gents...it’s coming along nicely! Great work...
-Tom
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Bravo!! Great job guys.
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Great work guys!!!
First drives are always a blast.
Glad it went well!!
Made the guy with the weed eater stop and look!!
And ain't the power steering great??
Who needs a gym membership??? ;)
Keith
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Awesome!
Don G.
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Thanks guys, appreciate the support! ;D
Corey
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Nice work on the repairs. Looking good.
Gary
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lot of job made here !
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Excellent progress ... looks really sweet runnin down the street!!
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As I have shown previously in this post, we have an original roller; however, someone cut about 4 inches off one side. This meant we were missing the 4 inch portion of the pipe, but also all of the fittings on that one end of the roller. We started looking for pipe, but 12" OD pipe is not that easy to find. I work in the gas industry, but all we use (and most others) is 12.75" OD. We found some 12"OD, but they wanted to sell us an entire 20' stick. No drops.
So, we got our brains together and did the math and figured out how big of a slot we needed to cut out of the 12.75"OD section of pipe (it was between 3" and 4" if I remember correctly) in order to be able to squeeze it together to get it to the correct size. And we did just that! Then Shon put his fabricating skills on show and built all of the end pieces and got them installed. The rest of the hardware we got from Paul and it fit perfectly.
I bought some springs from McMaster-Carr that are similar in size. Good enough that your average person won't know. Just had to shorten them an inch or so. I just couldn't spend $100 per spring.
Now we have a roller! I hope you enjoy the following pictures. Oh, and Shon, where is that driver side bumper?
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_38846.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39003.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39014.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39224.JPG)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39163.JPG)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39344.JPG)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/4447/medium/IMG_39845.jpg)
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And BTW, we still need one front bumper as you can see! Anyone have one?
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And BTW, we still need one front bumper as you can see! Anyone have one?
Pretty sure I do I will check.
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Fantastic job!!
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Great job!!
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Perfect job. Well done!
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Amazing job guys! Must've been cool to figure out and fabricate it as well! Result is outstanding!
Rob
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Way to go...nice job on salvaging the roller. Hope that higher math didn’t fry your brain too bad!????
-Tom
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Found the bumper sent you a pm. :)
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Bravo! How did you collapse the springs to get the shaft in?
Don G
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Thanks for the replies everyone. We really appreciate it. It helps us both make it through some of the tough times working on this thing!
Way to go...nice job on salvaging the roller. Hope that higher math didn’t fry your brain too bad!????
-Tom
We are both still recovering from that!
Bravo! How did you collapse the springs to get the shaft in?
Don G
Well, about that. My mind has purposefully blacked out part of this whole installation for some reason, but I remember there being an overhead chain host, some jack stands, and a floor jack. Then we prepared the fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads and used about 10 quarts of anti-freeze. Prestone.... no, make that Quaker State.
Also, remember that these are not original springs. They probably aren't as stiff nor quite as long.
Corey
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Thanks! That project is on my list!
Don G.
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WE HAVE OUR BED!!!!!!!
Today, we spent all day driving to pick up two more halftracks that we purchased. One with the bed we need! I'm exhausted, so I can't post much, but I'll put up a few pictures. There is one M2 (I believe it's a White) and an M15 (I believe it's an Autocar). I'm just so relieved to finally have a bed.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41084.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41095.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41135.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41185.jpg)
Corey
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The condition of the projects you guys find are amazing. I think you would recoil in disgust at the amount of corrosion on my project. I’m ashamed to even post photos of the frame as I know someone will tell me it’s only fit for scrap. Unfortunately that’s not an option in the UK as there’s no spare frames.
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Great finds Corey! Congratulations on having your bed! It is always nice to aquire spares!
Rob
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The condition of the projects you guys find are amazing. I think you would recoil in disgust at the amount of corrosion on my project. I’m ashamed to even post photos of the frame as I know someone will tell me it’s only fit for scrap. Unfortunately that’s not an option in the UK as there’s no spare frames.
It's very impressive that you're going to all the effort to save it! Don't be ashamed of it or let anyone discourage you from it - everything is fixable and you can be all the more proud when it's done and you look back at what you started with! Have fun with it and keep at it. That's how Shon & Corey got theirs looking so good!
Jon
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The condition of the projects you guys find are amazing. I think you would recoil in disgust at the amount of corrosion on my project. I’m ashamed to even post photos of the frame as I know someone will tell me it’s only fit for scrap. Unfortunately that’s not an option in the UK as there’s no spare frames.
Don't you dare be ashamed of the condition of your project! The worse condition it is in, the prouder you should be when you are done! You are saving history, no matter what it looks like in it's current state.
Corey
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Shon and I spent all day working on our two new acquisitions. It took half the day to get everything unloaded and moved around where we wanted it. After that, we cleaned up the M2 and got the bed off. Well, it's unbolted and ready to pull off anyway. Here are a few more pictures I was able to take today.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41255.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41265.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41275.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_41315.jpg)
Corey
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That is a great find Corey! Pretty cool that it has all the aluminium diamond plates, those are kinda rare!
Rob
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We got the bed set on tonight for a test fit. We learned some things that are going to have to come back off in order to get it all back together. Maybe. We still have more investigation to do. Also, we need to weld on some angle iron that was twisted beyond saving, or even missing. We didn't want to weld those on without the bed in place, to make sure it was a square as we could get it.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_42253.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_42262.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_42271.jpg)
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Not a piece of rot in sight. Nice work!
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Nice bed. Keep the pics rolling.
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Looking good!
Don G.
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I haven't updated our Lucky 13 project in a while, so here are some pictures. We had to do quite a few repairs to the bed, but it went surprisingly fast. Still haven't worked out the hinges mounted to the chain locker doors as they bend out of whack when trying to screw the hinge to the diamond plate. Got the grab bars installed but haven't welded in the pipes in yet as we want to make sure the bed is square and in the position we want first. The bars are inserted, just not welded yet.
We started installing the armor from Paul. Primed and painted individual panels and then began bolting it up panel by panel. I could just imagine the truck getting heavier and heavier. After the rear lower was installed we bolted up the rear steps. They look incredible! Finally, we finished painting the last batch of armor and got it installed last night. We only have the two locker doors left to prime and paint.
Shon and I can't believe we have this thing sitting in his shop. We just had to step back and stare.
Still lots of small things to do on the bed, and there is a significant gap around the vertical gap on the back of the driver's side door we have to get fixed. You can see the gap in the third to last picture. Could possibly be bed alignment. We still have to replace bearings and seals in all the bogie wheels on one side and replace the tires. Both of those projects keep being pushed back further and further. I think we are both hoping that one day we will go into the shop and they will have been magically done for us.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_43124.jpg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_4647_1_.jpg)
Corey
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Looking really great!!!
A fun part of the project.
Things get "big" quickly!!
Keith
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waouh
good joob
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Amazing progress guys!
Rob
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Your progress looks great, a lot of work done there.
Gary
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Well, Lucky 13 has finally lived up to her name. We've had our first major setback where we've had to go back and take things apart.
We haven't moved the halftrack in a couple of months, but we needed to pull it out of the shop and turn it around. As we backed it out, we noticed a clicking noise. There was no noise going forward, but it was there in reverse regardless of whether the transfer case was in low or high. I laid on the ground and Shon droved back and forth while I listened and we agreed that it was transmission related. Shon and I talked about where the problem must be and decided it must have something to do with the reverse idler gear.
Shon drained the oil out of the transmission and looked at the magnet on the plug. We noticed some metal flakes. Not good. I pulled the inspection plate off the side and reached inside to feel the floor of the transmission. I pulled out a chunk of cast iron. It was the piece of the case that holds the reverse idler gear rod in place. The break looked extremely old, so it must have been cracked for a long time. It probably snapped off the first time we put it in reverse. While feeling around further on the inside of the transmission I also find a broken off tooth. That was our clicking noise then.
We dropped the tranny and disassembled it on the bench. Of course, we broke a snap ring while taking everything apart. The reverse idler gear was fine but the gear it meshes with was missing a tooth. We now need a new case, a new gear, a new snap ring, and probably a new brass washer that goes on either end of the reverse idler gear.
Wonderful.
Pictures attached.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_005.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_003.jpeg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_000.jpeg)
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I have a complete transmission in Iowa that is good, already out and on a pallet.
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Cory,
I am interested in buying the cracked case, if you want to get rid of it. Just the case, nothing else.
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It's been a while since I updated our restoration thread so I'll make a few posts this evening, breaking up the pictures into groups so I can say a little about each.
Our broken reverse gear was basically unobtainable due to our shrinking project budget (Hint: this probably won't be the last time I mention that). So, we took a chance and just repaired it. We'll see how that goes. ??? Also got a replacement case since the ear broke out of our previous one.
We also got our seat lids welded together (we got them in two pieces instead of the single one we were after) and welded on the seat angle iron pieces we made. I repaired our fuel tank selector valve and am just hoping it doesn't leak.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_002_6_.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_002_9_.jpeg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_000_11_.jpeg)
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The perimeter rail is made and installed. Our existing rail pieces make it seem like this might have been a field mod on our truck as it is nothing but angle iron, so that's what we went back with. Welded, primed, and bolted in. Still need to put in a few beads here and there to weld the armor to the rail in just a couple of spots. Not 100% sure how this was handled originally, or if there was a specific way.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_007_6_.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_004_6_.jpeg)
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Looks Great!!
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The tires were a major pain in the ASS. ::) This wasn't our first rodeo removing MV tires, but each fight with them is different. I removed one at my house by myself and decided the next one was going to be a group affair. No reason Shon should miss out on this fun. We ended up just cutting the tires in half and removing one side, then pulling out the part of the tire that was pressed between the wheel and the ring. Then the ring was hammered off. Then the new tires, flaps, and tubes went on with very little trouble. I don't have a pic of them at the moment.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_007_7_.jpeg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_015_2_.jpeg)
Corey
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We also bent up some top bows. These are not replicas, they are simply to hold a tarp over our heads when we are in the field.
We got some more parts from Paul! Fuel tank covers and driver's side ammo locker. We got them primed, painted and one side installed. Since our project budget is shrinking so fast (I told you!) we haven't been able to get the fuel tanks yet. So, we went with some cheap, smaller tanks to get us by.
Lastly, we also got some more armor screws/bolts from Kevin and now almost have all the holes filled up in the armor! Shon made up the seat backs and mud flaps.
I'm sure I forgot something, but that's it for now! ;D
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_028.jpeg)
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You guys have done an incredible job on this half-track. I remember your first posts and it's pretty danged impressive how far you've come in the short time you've been at it. Keep up the good work and feed us more pictures as you go!
Jon
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Looking really great guys!!!!
Keith
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Wow!! Amazing progress!! Thanks for sharing, it is inspiring!
Rob
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Thanks for the at-a-boys! We have really been at this project pretty hard and we are starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel. (And for once I don’t think it’s a train!). Really appreciate all the help we have gotten from members of this group. I was talking to Kevin the other day and the idea of a halftrack rendezvous came up. We were wondering if there might be interest one of these days in a bunch of us getting together in the middle part of the country and taking some rides together ? I suggested Kevin could have an open house and some of us bring our tracks and all just spend time together. Would anyone be interested?
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You guys are doing a great job, keep the pictures coming. My perimeter rail had a series of welds attaching it to the armor plates also.
Gary
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Very nice job. Most of my projects have been low budget jobs. Makes you more ingenious ????. We just did 3 sets of CCKW tires. We cut out a chunk like you did, but then got a big sharp chisel, and a big hammer and cut the beads. Then the tire pretty much falls off. Still a lot of hard work.
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Nice work there. I remember doing my tires,not fun.I can feel the shrinking budget, took me 10 years to get where I’m at.
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Nice job, I see you took the hood latch off. What size are the rivets for attaching the latch to the armor piece? Thank you and again really nice job.
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Nice job, I see you took the hood latch off. What size are the rivets for attaching the latch to the armor piece? Thank you and again really nice job.
I'm not really sure. I just picked what fit the hole the best. I'll try and look nest time I'm in the shop if I can remember.
Corey
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Made some more progress. We got the final exterior and interior paint done and started some stenciling. Lastly, there is a very short video of me driving down the street and into the driveway with our close friend standing in the back. He is a prankster. He's also the one that painted the name on our halftrack.
Corey
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_0052.jpeg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/File_0061.jpeg)
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/20210328_182628_jpg.jpeg)
CLICK HERE ---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVR8KP4MV-8 <--- CLICK HERE
Corey
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Looks like your ready for the show circuit this summer if COVID allows.
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That looks fantastic guys!! Great job!
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Wow! Great job guys!
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Looks great, nice work.
Gary
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Who did your canvas work?
Gary
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That's a great name for your halftrack and you guys have done a FANTASTIC job!
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Thanks for the kind words everyone. Always makes us feel good to hear the support from all of you.
Who did your canvas work?
Shon got the seat cushions from jeepest.com. We are seriously impressed with their quality and affordability. Here's a direct link -> https://jeepest.com/gb/armored-m3-half-track/4303-cushion-seat-half-track-or-general-use-replica.html?search_query=half+track&results=59
All of the seat backs, Shon sewed up himself. He's quite the homemaker in his off time.
Corey
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Nice work
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Looks really great.
VERY nice job!!
Keith
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Well, we haven't updated our post in over 3 months so I'd like to post at least something to let you guys know we are still around and kicking. It's been hot here, as summers are; however, we've been dealing with humidity this year. We aren't used to humidity in the summers here in West Texas and it can some times really get us struggling. Also, Shon has been on summer vacations with his family and I have been with mine. But there really is a bigger reason or two that has led us to our lack of updates, which I'll touch on down below.
First, We got our shipping stencil printed and cut out. We printed the stencil on stencil decal paper and hand cut them out with an exacto knife. LOOOONGGG procedure. We also got the invasion star painted on the hood and the regular star painted on the front. Painters tape and an exacto knife for those.
This was all being done several months ago as we were preparing for our first public event. There was a large car show and we had already contacted the organizers and they were ecstatic to have us attend. The event was close enough to drive the truck to, but we've never had it over a mile at one time so we needed to go on at least a 4 mile journey to make sure things went well. As the driver, things seemed to go really well. It was a little weak on the top end and I could only get it to maybe 40, but other than that it went great. That was when Shon, who was following me, pointed to head back to the shop as he passed me.
We threw the rubber on about 8 of our bogies. We knew it would happen eventually, but we just assumed we would have a little longer. We don't drive it much so we assumed they would last a year or two. They didn't.
We were now going to be down for quite some time without the funds for either NOS bogies or urethane recoating. Since we were going to be down, we decided to go ahead and replace a leaking freeze plug and investigate our leaking water pump. Shon lined up a trip to Brent Mullins while he was going to be near there on vacation and we had come up with enough money to buy 8 NOS bogies.
Pictures follow.
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Looking good!!!
That hood stencil is fun isn't it?
Not sure how fast Bertha will go.
When we have the Shacktown Militia rolling to an event (1955 M38A1 Jeep and Half Track) we run
about 25-30mph and just grin like possums and wave to the surprised passers by. ;D
Keith
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Looking good!!!
That hood stencil is fun isn't it?
Not sure how fast Bertha will go.
When we have the Shacktown Militia rolling to an event (1955 M38A1 Jeep and Half Track) we run
about 25-30mph and just grin like possums and wave to the surprised passers by. ;D
Keith
Thanks Keith. Luckily for me, Shon handled the hood stencil!
I think we will just keep it in the 30mph range for our max speed and be happy with that.
Corey
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We got the new bogie wheels installed and wrapped up some of our other things off the "to-do" list and took Lucky 13 out for a drive. Things went great. We do have a clunking noise coming from the driver side track and I think it's because the track is too loose. It might be hanging up on the sprocket. See the video below!
https://youtu.be/2QgWiNoGwqE
Corey
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Very nice
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The halftrack looks and sounds great. Check the toe out adjustment on the rear idler.
Gary
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The halftrack looks and sounds great. Check the toe out adjustment on the rear idler.
Gary
Thanks, Gary. We have checked the toe adjustment and it's not correct. It's out by about an 1/8". We've adjusted the turnbuckles as much as we can. Looks like we will have to look at getting some machining work done in the future to get these set right.
Corey
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Well friends, it's been awhile since there's been an update. We have really tightened up some loose ends and have figured out things such as what we want to keep on the truck and where we want to store them. Our temp fuel tanks are all plumbed. It starts in less than one revolution and has great compression in all cylinders. It might be running a bit rich still, but I can live with that until the motor is fully broken in.
Because things are going so well, we decided to take the halftrack to an event we were attending in New Mexico. Shon's truck pulled Lucky 13 with no issues, except for just drinking the diesel fast, but that's to be expected. Stopped at the local brewery and had some really good locally brewed pale ale and unloaded the halftrack with no issues. The next day, we loaded up our GIs in Lucky 13 and sat off to battle on a 4wd road up a hill.
We made it 6/10th's of a mile and all of the sudden Shon noticed smoke coming from under the passenger side floor. First thing I thought of was electrical fire somewhere around the battery or battery wire. I stopped and Shon got out and raised the hood. It was antifreeze hitting the manifold causing the smoke. Based on the damage, we immediately thought the headgasket had blown. After a little further looking, that wasn't it. The damn freeze plug I had installed only a couple of weeks ago was leaking. Unloaded the guys and told them they were gonna have to hoof it.
We got home home and Shone immediately tore apart the manifolds. The bottom freeze plug (behind the manifolds, of course) had just fallen out. I'd never installed these disc types before and I guess I simply didn't flatten them out enough. Because they are located in such a shitty spot, we decided to toss the freeze plugs and just tap the castings and install plugs. No more leaking then!
Thanks for reading,
Corey
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Wwii pictures 12AD
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When you tapped for the threaded freeze plugs, what size plug did you use?
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What exactly were you testing for here? Did you clean up the resistor at all? Did you replace any of the flaking insulation or coat it with anything before putting it back in the housing?
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Looks like that confirms the resistor is good. That resistor probably was never coated. A good brushing of the junk in between the coils would make it look better, but won’t affect its operation.
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http://halftrackinfo.com/index.php?topic=1694.msg9765#msg9765
Steve A.
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http://halftrackinfo.com/index.php?topic=1694.msg9765#msg9765
Steve A.
Thanks for the reminder Steve. If I can't resurrect mine I may go that route. Would still like to know where (which TM) the specs for the original resistor are listed, if anyone knows. Also, I think I found a way to create the old insulation...I'll make a new thread detailing my efforts...if the resistor is still good.
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Sorry all, I've been away way too long. Life gets in the way sometimes.
Thanks for the reminder Steve. If I can't resurrect mine I may go that route. Would still like to know where (which TM) the specs for the original resistor are listed, if anyone knows. Also, I think I found a way to create the old insulation...I'll make a new thread detailing my efforts...if the resistor is still good.
This was just confirming the resistor to run the 6 volt blackout lights is still good. You don't need a TM to show you the specs, you just need to know you need a resistor to drop you from 12 volts to 6 volts. It can get more confusing if your dealing with larger amps than we are here, but in this case the math shows you need a resistor of 2-3 ohms with a draw of say 10 amps. This one is still amazingly showing good at 2.4 ohms. I was just amazed it was still good, that's why I posted the pics. We converted the blackout lights to 12 volts so we didn't actually use the resistor for the blackout lights; however, it is still wired into the trailer plug since those bulbs would be 6 volts.
Actually, now that I think about it, maybe it was just the trailer plug that was using 6 volts and the HT BO lights were actually unusually 12 volts. I can't honestly remember, I'll need to look further into that to refresh my memory.
There was not type of lacquer or any other type of insulation on the resistor.
Corey
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When you tapped for the threaded freeze plugs, what size plug did you use?
I can't remember for sure, but I'm pretty sure it was just a 1/2 inch pipe plug. We found whatever plugs we had laying around that was similar to the holes those freeze plugs were used for, then tapped them. The cast block didn't take to tapping real well using the tools we had, so we were sure to use an aggressive sealant to help hold the pipe plugs in place.
Corey
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First, We got our shipping stencil printed and cut out. We printed the stencil on stencil decal paper and hand cut them out with an exacto knife. LOOOONGGG procedure. We also got the invasion star painted on the hood and the regular star painted on the front. Painters tape and an exacto knife for those.
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I can get the other dimensions from the TM 9-710,but where'd you get the road weight from? Did you have a reference pic to go off of?
Thanks, Tom