Author Topic: Broken Cylinder Head Bolt  (Read 6581 times)

dwhite

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Broken Cylinder Head Bolt
« on: November 30, 2014, 05:39:07 PM »
Started tearing down my engine this afternoon.  At first I thought one of the cylinder head bolts was missing, but that wasn't the case.  The bolt is twisted off just a little below the top of the cylinder head.  All of the other bolts came out without any problem.  But the cylinder head won't come off, although I can twist it side-to-side a little.  Seems it's stuck on the broken bolt.  Anyone have any ideas how to get the bolt out?  I thought about drilling it out, but I obviously don't want to mess up the head or the block.  Thanks, DW
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration

bright87

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Re: Broken Cylinder Head Bolt
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2014, 09:06:55 PM »
Keep the hole full of brake fluid for a couple of days-this will loosen up the rust and crud around the broken bolt then try to wiggle the head off.
Hopefully enough of the broken bolt will stick up enough to get a stud remover or a pipe wrench on to back out.

Monkeypirate

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Re: Broken Cylinder Head Bolt
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2014, 10:00:57 PM »
I have a broken stud in my block. The engine shop quoted me $25 to pull it.  At that price I will leave it to them But if that's not an option and you have to drill it I would recommend Renting/borrowing a Mag drill to use on it.That is of course you can get the head off. Good luck.

Outsider

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Re: Broken Cylinder Head Bolt
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2014, 07:40:14 AM »
Once you get the head worked off. Heat the head bolt with a torch until the top is red then let it cool before you try to remove it. Try not to heat the block. By heating the bolt and letting it cool you will make the bolt shrink a little in the hole and it will come out easier.

Steve
Lots of green "junk" as my wife likes to call it.
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dwhite

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Re: Broken Cylinder Head Bolt
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2014, 05:01:41 PM »
Soaked the stud as recommended, wiggled and pulled, and off she came.  Hate to admit it, but that's what my wife told me to do last week!  I generally use a 50/50 mix of automatic trans fluid and acetone as penetrating oil.  Seems to work better than what's commercially available.  Thanks for the help.  DW
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration