Rear axle wedge-lock washer removal?

[8683jb]

While the tracks are off, I want to replace the axle seals and rebuild the brake wheel cylinders. Are there any tips to getting the wedge-lock washers on the rear axle flanges to free up? I’ve beat on the end of the axle a reasonable amount, but they don’t show any signs of popping loose. I thought I had read a discussion about it on here, but now I can’t find anything. Thanks.
Jon


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[Smadge]

Jon,

Keep beating it in the middle with in rhythmic manner.  You don't have to kill it, but put a bit of force behind it and it will pop out.

Paul

[8683jb]

That did it...bigger hammer. Thanks Paul!

[R.E.Co.]

Mine were tricky too. Just be persistent! Sometimes taking a break and going back the next day when they somehow break free, works.  If I remember correctly, I took at big screw driver and got in between the drive shaft and the hub assembly, the seem where they meet.  Couple taps there with a few taps back on the end of the drive shaft popped those collars loose. Good luck, hopefully this helps! 

[Ma Deuce]

There are 2 threaded holes in cap to put bolts in to help pull. With that pressure and some love taps should come off

[8683jb]

They're both off - just needed more massaging with a larger club. I just didn't want to beat on them any more until I checked with others who have been there. Thank you guys.

[Outsider]

5lb sledge to the end of the axle will normally get them to loosen up. Just make sure you don't hit the studs! Then there is a special tool that is used to get them to come off the studs easily. They are hard to find in stores anymore, but you can make your own tool out of a pair of pliers. Leave one of the jaws as it comes from the factory. On the other jaw use a grinder and form a wedge to it so it will go into the little slit in the side of the wedge and pry it open when you squeeze the pliers with the factory jaw on the other side of the wedge.

Steve