Rear idler appears to bend inwards?

[brit plumber]

I was looking at my rear track idlers and at least the left one points in towards the frame. Does this mean the axle/pin is bent out of alignment? It looks like there’s an adjustable tie bar but I think this to support the idler rather than adjust it. If it’s bent, are they easy to obtain?

[emptyhead]

Might not be bent but worn. Either the casting or the shaft might be worn. The left side on my track was flopping around so pulled the pivot shaft out of the frame and had it welded and ground then the casting bored out. Good luck. Those pivot shafts in the frame are a bitch to get out.

[Cleprechaun]

I had that same issue. It leads to rapid ware on the outer idler flange. You might be able to adjust some of it out but tightening that turnbuckle. I had to take apart the turnbuckle, cut a tad off the threads then put it back in and tighten the hell out of it. I also had to put a thick backing plate inside the frame where it bolts to the frame. This is because you can tighten it so much that the frame rail will bulge out if there is no plate. Doing all this got mine straighter, but not perfect. You can also try replacing or swapping around the sockets that are inside the frame. I did that too.

[brit plumber]

Thanks Gents, this is one of the parts I’m trying to remove from the frame and she’s proving stubborn. One thing I have on my side is time so I’ll be soaking in penetrating oil on a regular basis and will likely try and add some heat too.

[Cleprechaun]

I pushed the shaft out by laying a bottle jack on its side in the frame, and then tapping the idler back and forth. I just cut the bolts off

[brit plumber]

Thanks, I’ve been reading a lot of similar posts and getting a feeling of what’s required. Next time I can get to the track I’ll take a photo of how bad it is. I fear I may need to replace the whole assembly.

[brit plumber]

Well I’m having a nightmare stripping this lot down. I managed to get the track spring stop bracket off the frame by using lots of penetrating oil and a FB torque wrench but the big 2.5” idler wheel nut does not want to shift. Even with the FB torque wrench set to 700lb, the wrench bent!

I’m thinking I should remove the whole assembly, heat and cool the nut a few times, submerse it in a few gallons of diesel and then reattach to the frame and try again. (I haven’t got a portable oxy/accet kit to try when attached to the frame).

So my next question is, how should I remove the double spring tensioner if I can’t undo the adjuster lock nut. Are the springs under much compression when the track is off? If I just undo the brackets, am I inviting danger to pay a visit? I may be able to fit coil compressors if they fit.

What are people’s thoughts please?

[spec4don]

You will need to back nut off the spring shaft it’s self plus there shouldn’t be much tension on the spring with the track off.

Don G

[brit plumber]

I thought I would need to do that, is it a 2” AF nut? I measured it at 2.2” but the book says 2”. I’m wondering if my callipers has given a false reading as they occasionally do.

[Cleprechaun]

Any chance those are left hand threads on that shaft? Iv never removed that nut on mine , so I don’t know. I do know one side of the halftracks do have left hand threads on the front lug nuts.

[spec4don]

Both should be right hand threads.

Don G.

[brit plumber]

Any chance those are left hand threads on that shaft? Iv never removed that nut on mine , so I don’t know. I do know one side of the halftracks do have left hand threads on the front lug nuts.

That was one thing I checked, definitely a RH thread. I can’t find a torque loading for the nut so it maybe that I just need a bigger wrench i.e. a 1500lb version!

[brit plumber]

And can anyone confirm the adjuster but is 2” AF? I’ll have to buy a specific 2” AF spanner as my huge adjustable wrench just isn’t up to the job.

[Outsider]

Heat up the nut until red on one side and remove it when it is still hot. Shouldn't be that tight. Most likely rusted on.

Steve

[brit plumber]

That’s my problem, my kit isn’t portable, I’ve got a fixed hearth on natural gas. I may have to invest in some portable oxy/acet kit, not sure how it works in the US but for gas to be reasonable money you need a bottle hire contract which is very expensive. The alternative is to buy the bottle with the gas which is more expensive but cheaper than a contract if your an occasional user (this is how I buy my welding gas) I think in the long run I may end up using a set more than I realise.

I was thinking of taking the whole assembly off and heating it on the hearth but I can’t get that spring adjuster nut to move. I think it must be a 2 and 3/16 nut as I’ve been back and measured it again at 2.1985 so allowing for some paint and surface rust it’s likely 2.1875, definitely not the 2” of the manual.