M3 Restoration

[spec4don]

Tom, I think the wear on the sprocket teeth were letting the track walk back until it was catching on the sprocket tooth causing it to jump. That and the idler being a little out of line. How ever I ran it after I adjusted the idler turn buckle which caused to track better on the idler but I still had the jump. The new sprocket seems to have made a big difference. I looked at my other sprockets and they were built up with weld. I'm beginning to think that heavy wear on the reverse side of the sprocket is the norm. Which is really counter intuitive as you would think the wear would be on the drive side of the sprocket.

I'm just guessing here but that is the only explanation I can come up with

Don G.

[steve-0]

it looks like you are getting closer to completing your halftrack.

im curious.  you have another unrestored halftrack, are you going to start on that one when you are done?
i ask because after my first restoration i didnt think i would do another one. then after a few years i was back at it.

[spec4don]

Well that's a tough one, I want to enjoy this one for a while. But I have a WC-13 command car just begging to be next on the restore list. But I think I would like to do a M2A1 or maybe dummy up a 75mm tank destroyer. Just kind have to wait and see. If I did it wouldn't be till after I retire.

Don G.

[yd328]

Don,
If you move right on to the other halftrack it should go twice as fast .

Gary

[spec4don]

Gary you must be using that new math

Did get the right side pulled off and the new wheel cylinder in. Even got the Boss to come out and help me bleed the brakes! However I wasn't sure how to answer the question of the night:

Me: "Just get into the drivers seat and I'll have you pump the brakes." So she gets in.

Her: "How do you fit in here?"

Not quite sure how to take that Discretion being the better part of valor:

Me: Very carefully

Don G   

[SNAFU 62]

That is a classic Don. I can see the whole discussion right now.

[yd328]

Gary you must be using that new math

That's my mechanics math, if you do the same job twice you can almost cut the time in half.

Gary

[spec4don]

Some how I'm not sure that works with halftracks!! 

Don G

[yd328]

Some how I'm not sure that works with halftracks!! 

I think you're right on that

Gary

[spec4don]

Well had a very interesting turn of events the last couple of days. Got the new wheel cylinders in. Steve helped me retrack the left side. Then pulled the right side, welded up the sprocket, new idler half and the because I just wanted to see if I could do it I retrack it my self Well me and my Ford 3000. Note to self: don't do that again   Anyway she runs really good now right up to the point the brake pedal went to the floor :x

Okay now I'm pissed! Pretty much figured out that my hydrovac blew a seal. So I decided I would bypass the hydrovac and at least have manual brakes. So I stop at my local hose supplier to have them build me a jumper hose. The only brake hose they can make has a 1/8" I.D. The lines on the halftrack are 5/16" That's not going to work. So I'll build it out of steel. About halfway home it dawns on me, I had them make the jumper line from my steel line to the block on the rear diff   Major restriction from the rear wheel cylinders, now I know why the rear wheel cylinders blew, too much back psi. Now as to weather or not that contributed to the hydraovac failing? Unknown! So I'm back to steel on everything.

Just something to keep in mind.

Don G.

[andy]

Humm in the car world pedal to floor is master cylander not a booster. Also dont see why a differance in brake line would cause differant psi's. Are u sure its not master?

Andy

[spec4don]

All true Andy except for the fact that I was also loosing fluid and I didn't have any leaks. After I bypassed the hydrovac it functioned fine. But the ID on the hose being 1/8th of an inch and the brake line is 5/16" That is an ID difference is 3/16 of an inch in volume reduction. That is huge. I believe it created a restriction and caused me 2 issues. One it would make the rear brakes work slow and be slow to retract. Two with repeated applications I believe it would cause a PSI build up in the rear brakes and cause the blown out wheel cylinders.

Don G.

[yd328]

Don,

NAPA gave me a part # 4900 brake hose for the rear of my M2 in case you want  stay with a flex hose. They matched it to the old one I took off.

Gary

[spec4don]

Thanks Gary, I'll keep that in mind. According to Kevin, the M2's had a rubber line and the M3's were steel so I think I'll just stick with it for now.

Don G.

[spec4don]

So Zelda's got a new doo! Painted her the weekend before last and spent most of last week putting on stars, hood and bumper numbers. The louver star was bear took me about an hour just to do the masking Anyway got my plate in the mail last week too so soon as I get that mounted I'm ready for a drive!

Don G