Author Topic: rear door lock assembly  (Read 13689 times)

HenryVIII

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rear door lock assembly
« on: February 17, 2014, 07:01:44 PM »
I see there is a door lock assy on ebay with a starting price of $675. That seem high. Does anyone know if there are repro door lock assys that are more affordable.? I have seen some old pictures of halftracks with a door handle used on the rear door. it looks the same as the ones used on the front doors. I thought this might be a cheaper route to take. I have not drilled the holes in the rear armor for either one yet. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.
Henry   

steve1973

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2014, 07:05:33 PM »
Leo's Tractor had them for about half the price at one time. He has a bunch of halftrack stuff but don't know if he is around any more.

Steve A.

HenryVIII

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2014, 07:17:33 PM »
Thanks Steve ,  Would you have contact info for Leo's tractor.

Henry

steve-0

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2014, 08:18:20 PM »
leo is listed in the links section of this site under vintage tractor sales.

http://halftrackinfo.com/index.php?action=links;cat=2

715-325-6331

dwhite

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2014, 08:50:37 AM »
I've tried Leo's website off of the links, but the url isn't there anymore.  DW
MVPA 17456
1952 M37
1970 M35A2
1943 Diamond-T M3A1 under restoration

Outsider

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2014, 03:21:32 PM »
His website hasn't worked in quite a while. You need to call him. I got some parts from him about 4 months ago.

Steve
Lots of green "junk" as my wife likes to call it.
Friends don't let friends buy Trailking Trailers!

HenryVIII

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2014, 07:43:11 PM »
I have not been able to get in touch with Leo or vintage tractor sales. The web site is down and I cannot get through on the phone  Has anybody else had better luck? I am trying to find the rear door lock assembly. I may have to try to make the parts if I cannot find what I need. Would anyone know where I could find parts, or have some detailed pictures and or measurements. I think I could make it if I had some good pictures and measurements.

Thanks,
Henry

bud44750

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2014, 09:35:39 PM »
Hi,
In a few weeks I'm planning on seeing a guy nearby who has an original set of rear door parts and making moulds, then patterns of them and then having the parts shown in the pictures cast in cast iron at a local foundry I do a lot of business with. I need them for mine and will and can make lots of extra raw castings for those who need them. It will be a several months to do that if you can wait.
I have quite a few close up pictures of this National guard museum M2 if anyone has a request.
bud

spec4don

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2014, 09:58:33 PM »
I had some of the door mounts cast in Aluminum and it was fairly inexpensive.  I took one of the brass ones down to the foundry and they used it for a pattern. I think Outsider had the pins made up once. I got lucky and bought one off of Ebay a long time ago.

Don G.
1941 M2A1 not restored
1942 M3 Diamond T Mostly restored
1943 M3A1 Under restoration
1967 M51A2 Tractor
1945 WC 63 needs restoration
1967 M36 Long wheel base duece
1951 M135 GMC Fire truck conversion

bud44750

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2014, 10:24:59 PM »
are all of the cast parts shown above cast in brass? if so I just have to use a different foundry

spec4don

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2014, 05:17:26 AM »
Correct when I bead blasted everything was brass. You might try Valley brass in Salem, you kind of have to keep after them though. I still have one of my pieces up there. I had the aluminum pieces done at Oregon pattern works in Eugene. I think they were only about 6 bucks a piece. Brass was going to be about 20 dollars each. Now that I have everything mounted and painted you'll be hard pressed to find which part is aluminum and which one is brass.

Don G.
1941 M2A1 not restored
1942 M3 Diamond T Mostly restored
1943 M3A1 Under restoration
1967 M51A2 Tractor
1945 WC 63 needs restoration
1967 M36 Long wheel base duece
1951 M135 GMC Fire truck conversion

bud44750

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2014, 01:38:50 PM »
Thanks Don
I have home foundry guy , Troy,north of salem, oregon who does all my flamethrower castings. great work at a good price and does brass or aluminum. There is also Silverton foundry for cast iron, a bit strong I think and not much more than aluminum but much less than brass.
bud

HenryVIII

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2014, 02:34:17 PM »
Bud, Thanks for the pictures and info. It looks like from the pictures where the paint is chipped that the cast pieces are made of steel or iron. It is hard to tell for sure though.

I would be very interested in any of the parts to make a latch setup if you have some cast. I do not think it makes much difference what they are made from, once they are painted they all will look the same. That said, I think brass would be stronger than aluminum.

I have noticed that the parts on my halftrack that I thought were cast iron were actually cast steel. I say that because I can weld to them and the welds do not break like they would if they were welded to cast iron.   

Henry   

Tapper02

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #13 on: August 08, 2014, 09:21:09 PM »
Bud,
  What parts are you planning on having cast?  I guess more importantly is what parts are you not going to cast?  I have the springs…just need everything else!  :)

-Tom
1942 Diamond T M3 Halftrack
  (Being restored to an M3A1 configuration)
  Frame Number M31789
  Ordnance Number 3692
  Hood Number USA W403570-S
1944 Schelm Bros. M10 Ammunition Trailer
  Serial Number 16959
MVPA # 30507

bud44750

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Re: rear door lock assembly
« Reply #14 on: August 09, 2014, 08:58:51 AM »
 I'll be making moulds of the outside and inside door handles, the eccentric under the handle and it's base. the inside handle base and the small loops that hold the rods to the doors, everything else seems to be bent flat bar, springs or rods. A really good material also might be ductile iron ,I have two foundries I use to make parts and the finish is great and the castings have  the strength of steel and will actually bend like steel but machines like cast iron .i.e. like butter ( just makes a dirty mess from the graphite). first steps though is to get the moulds done as that is a lot of work and the same for getting the moulds transferred  onto a pattern board so the foundry can deal with it. For guys who have never seen a pattern board, here is an actual one for a ductile iron part from an antique streetcar. this board is what the foundry uses to cast a copy of the part in the foreground.
bud