ODD tulsa winch parts

[spec4don]

I spent last night trying to remove gauges... wow what a chore. is there an easier way than reaching up under the dash to unscrew things that I'm missing. I did succeed in finally getting it out. now on to the speedo. I figure if I do a little bit each night I'll get somewhere eventually.

Well here is the easy way to do it:







Even with the top armor plate off there is not easy way to get to them.

Don G.

[bud44750]

can the dash be taken off w/o removing that top piece of armor?

[steve1973]

I removed the floor plates with the seats and placesd my extra set with nothing on them. It gave me some extra room to move around in. Removing the steering wheel helps a lot to if you think it is safe. Some I wouldn't touch in fear of damage to the steering shaft, nut and threads. I've seen some bad ones. I'm used to working upside down so it was ok for me. Don makes it look to easy but he did a fantastic job!

Steve A.

[spec4don]

No it really can't. The wiring runs through the box and into the fire wall. Plus the top plat has some caged nuts on a couple of armor bolts. Guarrantied to be a drill out. No easy way to do it. I was restoring mine plus I had to reweld my window frame and fire wall so had to take everything apart anyway. So did my wiring while I was there.

Don G.

[bud44750]

thanks for the tips, I did notice that taking the electric brake out first gave more room to work on the gauge cluster and then with it out the speedometer was easier to get and so on, so it will just be going slow in the right order . I've also started to soak each bolt and nut I can  get to in a combination of WD 40 and automatic transmission fluid. after a week or so repeated application of that, most of the bolts and screws come off a lot better.

[bud44750]

Hi ,

yesterday, just as you recommended, I found a winch on Craig's list,in central Washington, sort of in the Battle Ground area. it's in great shape ( was dirt cheap at $200 , what a bargain !! )and turns out to be a 18H just as you had mentioned. I suspect the 18 H was an improvement on the G model as the sides of the drum wouldn't bend as easy as the thinner 18G , thus the " reel out" brake would work better and the side attachment for the cable allowed for easier attachment as well as bi directional attachment. since my M16A2 would probably have had a later model , the 18 H may be as it came originally.
       Now looking for a PTO and shaft. anybody have any ideas?
the color of the paint looks a lot more greenish than WWII or Korea OD. and the bolt holes on the frame look different than the location of the holes on my HT. so it must have come off something else??? or could have had the frame rails changed during it's lifetime.

by the way, where are the frame numbers on an M16A2? they are not on the front crosspiece under the loovers

[bud44750]

I have an 18 H winch but the cross angle iron does not have the correct frame attachment holes ( these are staggered) Does anyone have the dimensions of the hole locations, including the guard attachment holes so  can make a new front and back cross piece.
thanks
bud

[bud44750]

I was working on my 18 H Tulsa winch and noticed a difference between !8 G and 18 H. The !8 H has an 1.5 output shaft with no keyway. perhaps it had an hydraulic motor drive? . The 18G has an 1.25 output shaft with a keyway. I'm a bit worried how to get the shaft to drive the winch at full power without a keyway but time will tell.
bud

[Outsider]

Bud,
Use a shear pin. I use a soft bolt in place of an oem shear pin.

Steve

[steve-0]

the 18G winches i have here have a 1 1/2" shaft and no keyway.  they use a shear pin.

Bud,
Use a shear pin. I use a soft bolt in place of an oem shear pin.

Steve

yes....
 i have often wondered how bad it would be if someone used a grade 8 bolt and wasn't paying attention one day.

[bud44750]

I was going by the actual spec sheet from Tulsa on the shaft dia and the new 18 Gs are 1.25,
 There must be a shear pin hole in the shaft on mine under all that grease and crud. I'll just have to scrape and look,Thanks for posting the picture with the shear pin. I was worried that I had a real oddball winch there.
bud

[Outsider]

Bud, I have an 18H like you do. The only "freak" part about them is Tulsa claims they never made that model.

Steve, My guess is the cable would break before the G8 bolt!

Steve