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drive train => ignition system => Topic started by: emptyhead on February 12, 2013, 06:01:37 AM
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I have to pick my engine up today at the shop and he's got it set on number one top dead center. I can't find the coresponding numbers for the distributor in the Tm's I have does anyone have the cylinder firing order for the distributor?
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it is cast in big letters on the top of the cyl head ;D
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Sorry steve I was a bit cryptic in my question. I need to know where the number one cylinder is on the distributor cap. Like the new layout
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According to the tech manual i have, The rotor at #1 TDC firing is pointed straight back towards the firewall and the rotation is clockwise.
Henry
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i think you already have this info from the G but for future reference i will post this.
the distributor only goes in one way. for installation you will need a screw driver to line up the oil pump to properly engage into the bottom of the distributer.
pic of #1 cyl spark plug wire.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/IMG_12233.JPG)
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Thanks steve that's exactly what I was looking for.
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This info is useful. Reading the TM manual, it says to set nr 1 cyl to TDC on compression stroke, then
the rotor should be pointed °180 deg away from nr 1 sparkplug? Not sure if I am reading this right.
Reg
Hinrik
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Hi Hinrik
I was reading my manual TM9-710. and on pg173 it says "The rotor contact should have a position opposite the No.1 terminal in the cap" This is confusing. What I think it means is.... Because the contact pin for the no.1 cylinder is half ground or machined off, the rotor contact point is suppose to be in place to provide the other half or "opposite" half of the pin in the dist. cap.
I interpret "opposite" to mean in line with or adjacent to.
That is just my $.02
Henry
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Maybe a guy could look at a manual from a civilian motor?
Don G
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I interpret "opposite" to mean in line with or adjacent to.
Henry
i agree.
its kind of like when someone says 2 buildings are on opposite sides of the street yet they would still be facing each other.
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I keep flipping the oil pump insert 180 trying to figure this thing out. I have had the plugs in every order possible. I have even flipped the distributor rotor 180 from the number 1 plug like the book try's to explain. I'm waiting till I feel pressure on the 1 cyl, then rotate the flywheel about halfway till I get the bead mark. Set the rotor to about .02 opening before it opens to .20 .All I get playing around with the distributor is on one side she back fires a little, and I flip the distributor and then I get a hard puff of smoke out of this small hole under the carb on the exhaust manifold. It looks like a fuel fitting out of the side of the large line that goes to the hydrovac valve on the fire wall. I'm not sure what even goes in that small line. It looks like a hand fuel primer connection point. I dont have my hydrovac for the brakes on yet. No one seems to have one. Would there be any vacuum issues pertaining to that hydrovac system that would prevent start up? I need some solid help here man. I have to move this truck in another garage very soon and I cant get an initial start up. Please advise. Thanks , mark
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Is there a way to tell if that oil pump insert is in correctly? I know the in the manuals for the M37 it's clear how to set that up and the longer slot points to the 11 o'clock position I believe. This engine has a slightly longer slot on it as well so the distributor can only go in one way. Do you know what position that slot should be when on tdc?
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Here's a shot of my engine when I was running it on the stand. You can see where my #1 ended up being.
Don't get hung up on the slot.
#1 plug wire doesn't care where it is on the cap as long as the rotor is pointing at it at TDC on #1 cylinder on the compression stroke.
Plug all the ports under the carb for now.
Firing order right?
You have the order going the correct direction around the cap for rotor rotation? Clockwise
Plenty of fuel? These things like a lot of gas.
Keith
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I keep flipping the oil pump insert 180 trying to figure this thing out. I have had the plugs in every order possible. I have even flipped the distributor rotor 180 from the number 1 plug like the book try's to explain.
Mark -
The book's not saying 180 degrees from #1. It's a little misleading, but when it says "...opposite the No. 1 terminal in the cap..." it means the rotor needs to be pointing right at the No. 1 terminal. Again - make sure it's on the compression stroke.
Jon
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I get a hard puff of smoke out of this small hole under the carb on the exhaust manifold. It looks like a fuel fitting out of the side of the large line that goes to the hydrovac valve on the fire wall. I'm not sure what even goes in that small line. It looks like a hand fuel primer connection point. I dont have my hydrovac for the brakes on yet. No one seems to have one. Would there be any vacuum issues pertaining to that hydrovac system that would prevent start up?
Are you using starting fluid to try to fire this up now? Or just using the fuel provided by the fuel pump? The hole you are talking about is the hole that provides plumbing up to the hydrovac check valve on the fire wall and it also provides vacuum over to the vacuum pump portion of the fuel pump assembly. That is a major vacuum leak. You need to plug any holes in the intake manifold. Using starting fluid or something like that won't be affected by that hole, it should still kick over, but it won't run long as it will run solely off of the fluid you sprayed into the manifold. The vacuum leak WILL prevent the carb from providing fuel, though.
Also, I'm not sure what you mean by flipping the distributors rotor 180. The rotor can only seat onto the distributor shaft in one direction.
I would quit messing with the oil pump. As long as the distributor is seated correctly into the oil pump it will work. It can only go in one way. Your wires maybe 180 out on the cap, but that's fine. Once you figure out if it's 180 out, you can rotate the oil pump if you choose to at a later time.
Just find the TDC mark on the flywheel and line that mark up with the tang in the little opening you look through on the bell housing. Once that is lined up, look at the rotor. Wherever that rotor is pointing is going to be the #1 plug on the cap. That's it. Arrange all of the other wires from that point in the correct order, I believe its 1-5-3-6-2-4 (there's an old saying about that firing order to help remember it, btw). The order should go in the clockwise direction as looking from above the distributor. It should be close enough to at least run at that point.
Corey
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I did all the basics again playing around for a few hours. All I'm getting is some puffs out the tail pipe every 5 seconds. It doesn't sounds like a normal back fire. More like a backfire with a silencer on the tail pipe. Ran a line from the manifold to the top of the fuel pump. And sealed the end of the large pipe that goes to the hydrovac until I get one installed. For some reason now my fuel pump isn't pushing fuel to the carburetor. I might need to just move the hose down in the fuel container I have on the side that's feeding the pump. I just gave up on it for the night. Yesterday when I had that oil pump tang flipped 180for the distributor to fit 180 as well, she sounded like she wanted to start a few times. When I flipped it back completely different stuff going on.
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Another thing, I'm not sure if my compression tester is off a few pounds or not but I'm getting 110 100 95 90 105 115. My m37 runs on 89 to 95 on all cylinders. The book says it needs to be 120 and within 10 on each cylinder. Do you think these compression readings are fine for this engine?
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Should fire with those #'s.
Might get even better after it runs a bit.
You can rig a small "tank" to gravity feed carb.
See attached photo that shows what I did on my stand to run the engine.
That would get the fuel issue out of the way....unless a carb issue.
Can always pour a bit of fuel down carb and see if she fires.
Like I said before....these motors are thirsty.
Keep at it...you'll figure it out!!
Keith
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Is there a way I can get a pic from someone on a view down the distributor shaft. So I can see what the oil pump extension shaft looks like from the top were the distributor tang fits into. While at top dead center of course. Now unless the shielded plugs are grounding out on the top of the head somehow preventing it from starting, then the oil pump shaft is backwards. That's all I can think of. In theory it should be starting. I'm getting spark, fuel, air, compression, vacuum, and it's in time for what I can see. Plus I'm using starting fluid now and that bearly gives me a putter and that's when I flip the wires 180 on the distributor. Lining the 1 cylinder plug up while at tdc on compression stroke only gives me a back fire.
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Ok I know I'm spit balling at this point. I put the plugs back in the original place for tdc on 1 cylinder in the cap with the router pointing at number one plug about to open. Now even though I checked each plug and I have spark using the original shielded wires. I decided to grab two random regular plug wires and put those in the 4 and 6 cylinder plugs. Then for the first time....I had the engine start for 3 sec, then 5 seconds. I wanted to start. So I'm going to take a stab at it and just buy new plugs and see if that works better. I have a feeling these original plugs are grounding out. Is there known issues with these shielded plug wires I should know about?