volt meter and momentary switch

[steve-0]

the original dc volt gages had 3 small screws on the outer face holding them in. i haven't been able to find that mounting style in modern gages but i did find some that will fit and look good.

original gages 2 1/16"
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_0418.JPG
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_04151.JPG
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_04191.JPG

some i liked

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82481/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-332702/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NVU-40123-03/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-1592/

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Gauges-Analog/Gauge-Type/Voltmeter/Gauge-Size-in/2-1-16-in-diameter/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc&page=1

momentary switch

Cutler Hammer Part No: 8440K3 is the best match i have found
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/item/137862/
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/cutler-hammer-eaton_8440k3.html?p=11066816

the following is some stuff that is kind of close
im not sure how hard these are to push.
some would need the plunger trimmed down to look right but then you might loose the travel needed to activate it.

http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/160/91811/
       http://www.partdeal.com/switches/push-button/school-bus-momentary-switch.html
       http://www.globelectric.com/49.html
       http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/key/V30%2091811/pn/Door-Momentary-Switch-4-Screw/erm/productDetail.do;jsessionid=9611226D4155503106E246A3232602F9

http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/160/9180/

http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/156/9100/

this one has one terminal and would ground through the switch
http://www.apartswarehouse.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=210

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8185k11/=eypavm
part number 8185K11

might have potential
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/Item/2105/TYCO_ALCOSWITCH%20-%20SPDT%20MOMENTARY%203%20AMP%20_%20125%20VAC_%20Pkg%20of%204_%20-%20MPS103F/

[cpetronis]

Hello all,

    Thanks for posting the information about meters and switches. I decided to take the plunge and reinstall this monitoring system after my voltage regulator died and I didn't realize it. The voltmeter on my instrument cluster really never spike too far one way or the other, maybe it's out of whack, so I just didn't have any tell tale sign that the regulator bit the dust until one morning my batteries were dead.
   Long story short I can't afford an original, even if I could find one. I did some internet snooping based on some of the links provided in this topic. I believe I've come up with something darn close to the original without breaking into my kids's 529 college savings program.
   This meter comes from Allied Electronics.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70209513
   
    The address just posted doesn't have a picture however if you click on the "similar products" tab below the meter description, you'll see one's with pictures. All of the face layouts are the same, the only variation is what scale of volts you want. So the one I bought SKU=70209513 goes from 0 - 15 volts. They aren't giving them away but it was a better price than an original. The company did take a while to ship it to me, I swear they're making them individually as needed. I am happy with the overall look though. I just painted the bezle up last night and now am waiting on the momentary switch before I actually install it in my dash. I'll take a picture when it's all done.
     Hope this helps.

- Chris

[steve-0]

i dont think that one is going to work
its a 2 1/2" gage. the originals are 2" or 2 1/16"

here are some links. i dont know if these will help or not.
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=184127

these may work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-A-M-INST-Power-Volts-DC-Indicator-Panel-Meter-Gage-265-waterproof-1mA-/280912054717

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weston-0-60-Volt-DC-Panel-Meter-Model-506/360666214995

i dont think most of the bellow ones will work. they are to big

http://www.rammeter.com/simpson-electric-round-style-analog-panel-meter-dcv.php

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/62mm-DC-0-20V-Analog-Volt-Voltmeter-Meter-Panel-Free-Shipping/819861007.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Weston-model-1021-0-5-10-20-Peak-Volts-Panel-Meter-/360484831438

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=weston+dc&_pgn=4&_skc=75&rt=nc

[cpetronis]

Hi there,

    Well, I don't claim to know anything about what happened to my halftrack between 1943 and when I bought it in 2007. Maybe it was 2008, I lost track. No pun intended.  At any rate, there was a hole in the dashboard with the three slots for mounting screws in there when I bought it. Perhaps somebody before me cut a larger hole than what White originally put in there, I don't know. The good news is however between humidity induced thunder storms this evening I got a hair up my butt and decided to put my new gauge and switch in. If I waited until we had a clear day I'd never get anything done this summer. Here's a picture of how it turned out.
[/URL][/img]

   It fit right in without any modifications to the existing hole. Needless to say I measured it before I purchased the gauge and everything looked as if it should fit. Granted, I didn't have a lot of room to spare but she did go in so I guess that's what matters. Personally I think it looks pretty good.
    I was a little miffed about the push button switch as the company had a minimum order of like $15 or something so even though the switch was $9 they tacked on the extra money to bring it to the minimum. They then had the audacity to charge me $9 to ship it. It's in and working though so I guess I can't complain too much. That's not true, I'm a natural born complainer, just ask my wife.

- Chris

[cpetronis]

Dang, I guess the picture thing didn't work too well. Darn modern tech-not-ogy.

Here's a direct link to the picture, maybe you can cut and paste this into your browers.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab192/cpetronis/DSC02290.jpg

[yd328]

Looks good Chris. I have found some of the switches are still availible from Cole-hersee, which you should be able to get from your local auto parts store.

Gary

[steve-0]

that looks great.
they list it as a 2 1/2" gage which would normally also mean the hole size but these are called panel gages so im guessing they may use the od of the face for their description.

there are many sources for the Cutler Hammer switch  8440K3
if you do a google or bing search you will find a bunch.

[cpetronis]

     Thanks for the positive input. My next step is to actually test it out for what I intended it to do. Long story short, I believe my ammeter on the gauge cluster might be a bit out of whack. When I first start the vehicle the needle just barely goes to the positive side, then within a few seconds it always drops down to just a hair on the negative. I'm guessing these things are probably calibrated somehow so it's not hard to imagine that after 70 years it might be slightly off.
     Well a few months ago my batteries were quite dead. It turns out my voltage regulator bit the dust. By following the manual and jumping a couple of terminals thereby bypassing it, I confirmed that my generator was good. Too good actually because I jumped it at about 1500 rpm, pegged the ammeter and was putting out some ridiculous voltage. I guess that's the purpose of the regulator.
     So I put this voltmeter in as a means of attempting to more accurately reflect what's happening with juice on the batteries. When I put my fluke meter on the batteries after there's been a drain on them I can see something like 14 volts going in. When the engines off they read 12.5.
    So to test this gauge I  hit the button with the engine off, sure enough a perfect 12.5 which I expected. Then I started the engine which caught pretty quickly. I pressed the button again hoping to see 14 volts because I expected the voltage regulator to kick on and put juice back into the batteries after cranking for 4 seconds. Apparently not. So I'm thinking the next step will be to run the motor and turn on every light on the vehicle. That should kick the regulator on so I can read 14 volts on my new meter thereby confirming that my regulator is doing it's job and bypassing my suspected out of whack ammeter.
    Somebody check me on my logic there please.

- Chris 

[Outsider]

On a system with a generator it is not uncommon to have to rev the motor a little to get the generator to kick in. 1000 to 1500 RPM should do it. You should not have to create a draw to get it to kick on. When the batteries are charging you want to see somewhere between 13.75 volts and 14.5. Any lower and your batteries won't charge properly. Any higher and you fry the batteries.

Steve

[andy]

Guys can you explain what the momentary switch is and what it does,
Im starting my wiring and some stuff is beyond me 

Andy

[spec4don]

The volt meter just reads voltage only when the momentary switch is pushed. Mostly they were used when there was a radio on board so they could check battery level. The gauge cluster has a amp gauge to indicate charge. later on the volt meter and switch were removed and a plate was put over the hole.

Don G.

[andy]

Thanks don, so is it needed?, can i mount the volt meter without it?

[steve1973]

Andy
If you want to use the gauge you need some type of momentary switch so you don't ruin the gauge. If you just want to mount it for looks, hole filler, then you don't. I have mine mounted but not hooked up.

Steve A.

[andy]

Thanks again guys,
But if you were to  mount and hook up an  aftermarket volt meter do you still need the momentary switch? will it damage something else in the system or gauge still?

[spec4don]

If your not going to actually hook up the volt meter then the only reason to need the switch to fill the hole.

Don G.